Door Hardware Genius

Seclusion (or Time-Out) Rooms

Seclusion rooms (AKA time-out rooms) are rooms within a school or other facility reserved for separating an individual from the rest of the population for behavioral reasons. Regulations for time-out rooms vary widely from state to state and jurisdiction to jurisdiction. Before researching seclusion/time-out locks be sure to familiarize yourself with the regulations in your jurisdiction.

Time-Out Room Principals and Procedures

The main principal guiding the function of locking hardware for time-out rooms is that they remain unlocked at all times except when the room is in use, and when in use, physically held in a temporarily locked position by a staff member. In other words, a staff member must hold the lock in the locked position the entire time the individual is in seclusion. Should the staff member take their hand off the lock, the lock will automatically be unlocked.

According to most regulations, it is the duty of the staff members administering seclusion to ensure the safety of the person being secluded by observing them constantly during the seclusion period. The nature of time-out room locking devices helps ensure that observation is done by requiring the staff member to manually keep the door locked the whole time.

Once again, time-out rooms are highly controversial and subject to regulations. Before creating a time-out room, be sure to check with the local building inspector, fire marshal, and/or superintendent of schools within the jurisdiction.

The Corbin Russwin CLX3320TO Time-Out lock (above) has levers on both sides. The inside lever is unlocked until a staff member depresses the button on the outside lever. As long as the staff member keeps the button depressed the inside lever will remain locked. The moment the staff member releases the button the inside lever becomes unlocked.

This lock would be used in applications where the lock is not subject to a lot of abuse. The inside lever is vulnerable to attack, and neither lever is anti-ligature.

ABH 6830 Time Out Lock

The ABH time-out function hospital push/pull (above) works in reverse action, that is, the latch remains retracted until the paddle is pushed down or up, depending on inswing or outswing application.

Since it is a tubular hospital latch with a robust paddle mechanism, it is a durable lock. And since it has only a blank plate on the interior side it has little vulnerability and could be considered to be anti-ligature from that side.

Dormakaba Best Access SSR Series Time-Out Lock

The Dormakaba SRR series of seclusion locks (see above) offer robust resistance to forcible exit. The time-out function is actuated by the staff member constantly pressing down on the lever. The moment the staff member removes their hand from the lever the latches are released.

A single point version is also available as well as the 3-point version above. Both the 3-point and the single point have inswing and outswing versions.

Since the SSR lock is surface applied to the exterior side of the door it could be considered to be anti-ligature from that side.

Accurate Hardware 9044TO | 9144TO Time-Out Lock

As of this writing, I believe this is the only time-out function mortise lock available.

The Accurate Hardware model 9044TO | 9144TO time-out mortise lock (pictured above) is made to order and customizable at the factory. It is available with anti-ligature handles on both sides, an anti-ligature handle on the exterior and blank plate on the interior side and in other configurations as well.

Vertical Double Magnet Housing with M62 or M82 electromagnetic locks

Yes, it is possible to use electromagnetic locks on a time-out room application, and it makes sense. Electromagnetic locks are inherently fail safe.

To make an electromagnetic locking system, use a full height vertical housing as shown above, and install two M82 mag locks in the housing. This will provide 3600 pounds of holding force. The housing must fit perfectly from threshold (or floor) to header and must not extend past the reveal of the door frame to avoid creating a ligature point on the inside of the room.

On the door frame on the outside of the time-out room door, install a momentary contact, normally open pushbutton switch. Now the magnets will only be locked while the button is pressed. As soon as the staff member takes their hand off the button, the door will be unlocked.

Whenever creating a seclusion or time-out room be sure to consult with your local authorities before proceeding.

Like all door hardware, electromagnetic locks (or “mag locks”) have strengths and limitations. This article deals with installation accessories that help mag locks be more versatile.

Consult with your local building inspector whenever considering a mag lock solution.

Single and Double Electromagnetic Locks

Illustrated above are the two most common types of electromagnetic locks; these are made by Security Door Controls. They are exactly the same except that one is made for use with a single door and the other is made for use with a pair of doors.

Below is pictured a side view of the basic installation for either of the mag locks above.

Standard Installation components. – Electromagnetic Lock

The red arrow at the top of the illustration above shows the direction the door swings. Users push the door from the magnet side, so this installation is called “push side mount.”

• Header – the top member of the door frame
• Magnet – the powered part of the electromagnetic lock
• Armature (or Strike) – the block of metal that is attracted by the magnet to lock the door
• Sex Bolt – the main bolt that attaches the armature to the door

These parts (plus mounting fasteners) are included with the electromagnetic lock.

Mag Lock Accessories

A wide variety of brackets and plates are available to help customize the installs to mesh with the features of the door and door frame.

Install instructions for mag locks are easy to find online. Be sure to consult them for product dimensions that will help you decide whether or not you need installation accessories to make your install possible. The other half of that equation is taking good measurements of the door and frame. Having these measurements will make you confident that your install will work.

Filler or Spacer Plates

The above illustration shows a mag lock installed on a door that has a header with a stop (indicated by the red arrow) that is not wide enough to accommodate the lock. Enter the filler plate (also called a spacer plate). The filler plate acts as a shim, in effect lowering the mag lock so that it clears the stop and can make proper contact with the armature.

Angle Brackets

Above is pictured a standard mag lock installation with an angle bracket that extends off the header to accommodate the depth of the magnet.

Top Jamb (TJ) or Z Bracket Mounting

Above is pictured the magnet installed onto the face of the header on the pull side. The armature is held by a “TJ” (Top Jamb) or “Z” bracket. This is a less common install since egress doors are usually push-to-exit doors. Also, if installed on the exposed side of an exterior door, the magnets would be exposed to the weather.

Below is another illustration of a top jamb installation.

Shear Locks

Shear locks are so called because when users open the door, the armature is moved away in a sideways direction, in other words, in a shearing motion. They are most often mounted vertically, as shown in the installation diagram above, with the magnet in the header and the armature in the top of the door. They are concealed inside the header and door.

The magnet pictured above can be also be mounted in the lock side leg of the door frame, with the armature in the edge of the door.

Shear locks from some other manufacturers can also be mounted in the floor or threshold. One such is pictured below: the Schlage Electronics GF3000BRD. With this model, the magnet is mounted in the floor and the armature is mounted in the bottom rail of the door.

Surface Mounted Shear Locks

Several manufacturers offer surface mounted versions of their shear locks. These can be problem solvers. There are also Top Jamb versions of these surface shear locks.

Electromagnetic Locks for Gates

Above are pictured a mag lock designed for use on outdoor gates and a set of brackets designed to be adaptable to a wide variety of gate configurations. Gate mags are sealed and weatherproof, and have a conduit fitting so electrical conduit can be run directly to the mag to complete the waterproof install.

What Is an Electric Strike?

To understand the electric strike, one first must understand the term “strike.” In the context of door hardware, “strike” means a metal plate or assembly that is installed into or onto a door frame on the lock side to receive a latch or bolt and hold it secure. When locking a pair of doors with a single-point lock, the strike is installed on the inactive leaf, that is, the door that is locked in place with flush bolts. When locking a pair of doors with vertical rod exit devices, the strikes are installed into or onto the header and threshold, or sometimes just the header.

At right is a picture of a standard ANSI (non-electric) strike in a hollow metal frame. When the latch contacts the lip of the strike, it is forced back into the door, allowing the door to close. When the door is fully closed, the latch drops into the “D”-shaped hole, securing the door. One would say that the door is then positively latched.

The term “positive latching” relates to compliance with the fire code in the sense that fire-rated doors are required to be equipped with positive latching devices, that is, locks that latch positively. Since the electric strikes you may install must comply with the fire code, this is an important concept.

How Electric Strikes Work

This mechanism is not called an “electric door opener” because it does not open the door. They only allow a person to open the door. The force that opens the door comes entirely from the person.

An electric strike holds the latch, just like a non-electric one, but can also electrically release it.

Electric Strike Anatomy

Above is an illustration of a classic, single-keeper electric strike showing its visible external parts when not installed—a simple mechanism, in spite of how complicated it sounds.

• The Faceplate: This has mounting holes in it through which screws are inserted to fasten the electric strike to the door frame.
• The Keeper: This is a movable cavity into which the latch projects when the door is closed. The keeper pivots outward when the strike is activated, releasing the latch.
• The Lip: This bridges the gap between the faceplate and the edge of the door frame and provides a path for the latch to enter or exit the electric strike.
• The Body: This contains the internal electrical and mechanical parts of the electric strike.

Faceplate Considerations

• Height and width dimensions
• Finish
• Round or square corners

For installation in wood door frames, a larger faceplate with square corners is recommended. For hollow metal frames, like the electric strike in my illustration above, the faceplate should be 4-7/8 inches tall by 1-1/4 inches wide with square corners. For aluminum frames, a round-corner faceplate is generally called for, and there are a variety of sizes to accommodate various applications.

Keeper Considerations

• Depth
• Placement

For typical installation of an electric strike to release a cylindrical lock in a hollow metal door and frame, you will need to be at least 1/2 inch deep in order to accommodate a standard 5/8 inch deadlatch, given a standard 1/8 inch gap between the frame and the door.

For the cylindrical lock application described, the keeper will be centered in the strike. For installation with a mortise lock, the strike will need to have an offset keeper because, with a standard mortise lock prep, the hole for the latch in its non-electric strike will be offset (as shown in the illustration below).

Lip Considerations

Electric strike lips come in different lengths for different applications. The lip must extend far enough to reach slightly past the surface of the door frame. A standard electric strike has a lip that protrudes slightly from a hollow metal frame. For other applications, such as a center-hung glass and aluminum storefront door, an electric strike would need an “extended lip.” Lip extensions are available for many strikes to accommodate these variable conditions.

For installation in a pair of doors, a shorter lip is not required, but it does make for a much more aesthetically pleasing installation.

Body Considerations

Electric strike bodies are designed for specific applications. Most electric strikes are designed for hollow metal or aluminum doors and frames. For wood doors and frames, strikes are available with different body designs that leave more room in the prep for the mounting holes. If the screws are too close to the body cutout in a wood frame, the wood may split, weakening the installation.

In a pair of wood doors in which the strike will be installed in the inactive leaf, there is little room for error. It is best to get an electric strike that is designed for this specific application.

Electric Strike Applications and Pitfalls

Although I write about this in more depth elsewhere, the simple rule is: The electric strike you choose will depend upon the lock you use.

Therefore, when you go shopping for your electric strike, the first thing you need to know is what lock you will be releasing. The second thing you need to know is the characteristics of the opening: its composition and dimensions. An electric strike application is made up of the type of lock and the type of opening.

Here are some typical electric strike applications:

• Cylindrical lock, hollow metal door and frame
• Mortise lock, aluminum storefront door and frame
• Rim exit device, hollow metal door and frame
• Rim exit device, aluminum storefront door and frame
• Mortise lock, hollow metal door and frame
• Mortise exit device, hollow metal door and frame

Electric Strike Pitfalls 

A common (and expensive) mistake made when specifying electric strikes is to specify them for use on interior stairwell doors because, in most jurisdictions, stairwell doors must be unlocked and positively latched when the fire alarm has been activated and/or when the building experiences a power outage. If the strike is fail secure, the door will not be unlocked. If the strike is fail-safe, the door will not be positively latched.

Worse, fire-rated frames are only supposed to be modified in a fire-rated shop, so if you have cut electric strikes into the door frame of the field, the AHJ (authority having jurisdiction) would be fully within their rights should they order you to replace all the frames, in addition to removing all your electric strikes. You can see how this very rapidly might add up to a big loss.

Another electric strike no-no is vertical rod exit devices. There is no law against this, but the application works so poorly that it is hard to justify. First, the bottom rod must be removed from each exit device to be released by an electric strike. With the bottom rod removed, when you pull on the door, you will probably be able to pull the door out a couple of inches. Add to that the electric strike, which will also add a certain amount of mobility, and you’ve got a door that feels very insecure. And if later the door sags a little over time, the door will not be secure at all.

Electric Strike Examples

Above: HES 1500 electric strike. Available with faceplate kits for cylindrical or mortise locks. Used with hollow metal doors.

Above: Dormakaba RCI 0162 strike for rim exit devices

Above: Dormakaba RCI 12C compact electric strike for modified ANSI A115.3 prep in hollow metal or wood frame.

Special Application Electric Strikes

In addition to the applications discussed and shown above, there are situations require special electric strikes such as these:

• Electric strike installed in the inactive leaf of a pair of doors
• Electric strike for all glass door with overhead locking push/pull device

These strikes are shown below:

Above: Von Duprin 6223 for inactive leaf of a pair of doors

.

Above: Dormakaba RCI electric strike for all glass doors with surface vertical rod exit device

What Is a Mantrap System?

A mantrap (otherwise known as a security interlock system) is a locking system that prevents one door from opening before another is closed. One very popular application for a mantrap is on a clean room, where it is vital to control the flow of air (and dust) in and out of the secured space.

Every mantrap I have helped design is based on electromagnetic locks (magnets or maglocks). There is a good reason for this. Maglocks are very good for this application because they are inherently fail-safe. Except in detention applications, it is desirable to use fail-safe electrified locks in a mantrap application.

Basic mantraps are used on two consecutive openings (see illustration above).

How It Works

As long as the magnets are supplied with power, they are locked.

1. To enter the secured space, a person activates the access control (keypad, pushbutton switch, keyswitch, prox reader, etc.).
2. The access control closes a contact on the mantrap relay for perhaps 10 seconds, telling it to unlock the first door for that amount of time.
3. The person opens the door, changing the state of the door position switch, which tells the mantrap relay to keep the second door locked.
4. When the first door closes, the door position switch on the first door returns to its original state, which signals the mantrap relay to release the second door.
5. When the person opens the second door, it changes the state of the door position switch on the second door, which tells the mantrap relay to keep the first door locked.
6. When the second door closes and the door position switches on, it returns to its original state. The mantrap relay relocks both doors.

Similarly, from the inside, pressing the first request to exit button releases the inside door while simultaneously locking the outer door. The outer door cannot be opened until the inner door is shut.

Where Are Security Interlocks Used?

Mantraps or security interlocks are used at the entrances to “clean rooms”—typically rooms that must be kept as dust free as possible (for example, rooms for biomedical research or for the manufacture of micro-electronic components). They are also used for high-security applications such as cash counting rooms or sensitive government facilities.

Clean Room Applications vs. High-Security Applications

In the case of the clean room, the interlock need only ensure that the second door cannot be opened until the first is closed. In high-security applications, the term “man trap” becomes more applicable since the purpose of the system is to trap a potential threat between doors. Therefore, in addition to the door position switches and lock sensor switches, there will usually be another means, such as a remote switch in a guarded location, that must be activated before the second door can be opened.

Another main difference between high-security mantraps and clean room security interlocks is lock strength. The high-security application must anticipate the use of force, whereas the clean room application is untroubled by this consideration.

Usually, a high-security mantrap system will operate partly automatically and partly under supervision, and its chief function is to give security personnel extra time to react should a threat present itself.

Security Interlocks and Life Safety

Like delayed egress systems, fire and life safety regulations may affect or restrict the way mantrap systems are used. In a clean room, for example, the security interlock system will usually be connected to the building fire alarm. In the event of an alarm, the mantrap is disabled to allow free egress.

In high-security applications, connection to the fire alarm system in this way is an obvious weak link; however, without the approval of the fire marshal, building inspector, or other authority having jurisdiction (AHJ), the system must allow unrestricted egress in an alarm condition. Therefore, it is imperative to get the approval of the AHJ prior to installing any mantrap system.

Many companies make power supplies and relays that are supplied with directions on how to use them to create a mantrap or security interlock.

High Energy vs. Low Energy

Power Operators – also known as automatic door openers – are devices that open doors for persons with disabilities. They are available in two main varieties:

• High Energy
• Low Energy

High energy power operators are installed by AAADM (American Association of Automatic Door Manufacturers) certified technicians and are used in high traffic applications like hospital emergency room entrances, supermarkets, and large office buildings. They are used on both swinging and sliding doors. If your application demands a high energy power operator, you should call a door control or automatic door company. You should do this because a high energy power operator improperly installed could injure someone.

Low energy power operators can be installed by non-AAADM certified technicians and are used on swinging doors in lower frequency applications such as a small doctor’s office with 2 doctors, a separate entrance dedicated to persons with disabilities or otherwise subject to occasional use, an apartment entrance, or the entrance to an apartment building housing no more than 10 or 12 units.

If a low energy power operator encounters and obstacle, it will stop, and so it is less likely to injure a person. High energy power operators are more powerful and require safety sensors to ensure that no one is in the path of the door as the operator shuts it.

Aside from wiring and safety accessories, power operator can be as easy to install as a regular door closer.

Basic Wiring

The drawing above shows basic wiring for a power operator system. Power operators usually run on house current – around 115VAC – however, there are some low-voltage power operators as well. Two-conductor wire runs from each actuator to separate inputs on the internal control board of the power operator. When a user activates the actuator, usually by pushing on it, the power operator starts its door opening cycle. Some power operators have a low voltage output to run an electric strike, and most have dry contacts that allow the installer to use a separate power supply to run their electric locking device as shown in the drawing. The power operator control board will activate the electric strike before opening the door.

System Components

A power operator system includes the power operator and activation devices (called “actuators”). A power operator on a swinging door can have an internal activation device, in which case the power operator is said to have “push and go” operation: a user simply starts pushing or pulling the door open and the power operator is activated.

Field conditions such as consecutive swinging doors and/or locking doors may require special equipment. If you are applying a power operator to an existing door that currently shuts and locks and you want the door to continue to shut and lock automatically, the power operator will need to have the capability to unlock the door before it opens it. If you have consecutive doors, for example, in a vestibule situation, the power operator may need to have the capability to open the doors sequentially. Many power operators have an internal logic board that will enable it to perform these operations internally. Aftermarket logic boards are available to achieve advanced functions not achievable with the internal logic board.

Incidental to the installation of the power operator, any locks that need to work with the power operator will need to be electrified. Electrification may be as simple as installing an electric strike, or, particularly when pairs of doors are involved, my require exit devices with electric latch retraction.

Actuators

Actuators are normally open, momentary contact switches. Any normally open, momentary contact switch can act as an actuator for a power operator. For example, one can use an access control panel to activate a power operator. One can also use a handheld wireless transmitter and receiver.

An actuator starts the door opening cycle. Two are typically required for each power operator. Usually these are mounted on the wall, one on the inside of the door, one on the outside. This allows folks to use the power operator on the way out as well as on the way in.

There are a wide variety of actuator styles available. The most common ones are four-and-a-half inches square and have “PUSH TO OPEN” and the wheelchair logo engraved on them. The largest ones are circular, six inches in diameter. These provide disabled persons with a big target to hit when they need to open the door. There are also touchless actuators (see picture below) that are activated by a wave of the hand – an option that prevents the spread of germs via the actuators. Smaller actuators are made to fit on door frames. Most actuators can be installed flush with the wall or in a surface mounted back box.

Actuators can be wireless. This makes sense if there is no locking device involved and stone or brick walls make running wires very difficult; however, when there is a locking device involved the installer is already running wires, so wireless actuators make less sense. The downside to wireless actuators is that they are battery operated. Periodically the battery will die and so will the actuator. But in some situations they are worth the upkeep because of the difficulty of running wires. In order to use wireless actuators, the power operator must be equipped with a wireless receiver. Most power operator manufacturers offer the wireless option.

Instead of actuators, a motion detector (such as the MS Sedco pedestrian door sensor below) can be used to activate the power operator. Weatherproof versions are available for outdoor use.

Access Control

The simplest access control systems involve one door and simply limit access to those holding the necessary credential – much like a mechanical keyed lock. The difference between these small, self-contained systems and mechanical keyed locks is that each user has a unique credential, so that one individual can be denied access while all others are unaffected.

However, access control systems can enhance security by tracking when credentials are used to enter or exit a space and when; by controlling who can enter (or exit) and when they can do so; and by monitoring the condition of doors and locking hardware.

Here is some access control vocabulary:

1. User – someone who uses the access control system to get in and/or out.
2. Credential – the identity of the user from the system’s point of view. Types of credentials include pin code, mag stripe card, prox cards and prox keys, and a human feature, such as the retina of the eye or fingerprints.
3. Pin Code – “PIN” stands for Personal Identification Number – a series of numbers unique to a particular user.
4. Mag Stripe Card – (magnetic stripe card) – plastic card with a magnetic strip applied to one side. The magnetic strip contains a code that can be read by a magnetic stripe card reader.
5. Prox Card – (proximity card) – plastic card with a transponder chip embedded inside. The transponder communicates with a proximity reader to effect access control. A Prox Key (or Prox Fob) is a plastic object containing a transponder chip that can by attached to the user’s key ring.
6. Time Zones – (schedules) – function of an access control system that controls when certain users’ credentials will be accepted by the system and when they will not.
7. Audit Trail – history of events recorded by the system, such as time when a credential is presented, instances of when a door was forced or propped open, or time when a door is opened for egress.
8. Front End – system user interface at the door that reads the credential and transmits the information to the access control panel.
9. Panel – brains of the access control system – receives the information from the front and and decides, based on its programming, whether to permit access.

How It Works

Full featured access control systems work like this:

The system manager uses access control software installed on their computer to set the parameters of the system, that is, to tell the access control panel what to do and when. Access control software is database software. The records in the database can be users, credentials, doors, and times. Using the software, the manager can grant or deny individuals or groups of users access to specific doors between certain hours and on certain days. The software can usually record which user accesses which door at what time and other events it what they call an audit trail.

In operation:

• The user presents their credential.
• The reader sends the information to the access control panel.
• The panel compares the information to its programming, “decides” whether to grant or deny the user access, and records the event in memory.
• A low voltage power supply powers the system and electric locking devices.

This system can be made up of components based on the building’s electrical system, can be part of the computer network either as devices connected directly to the network or connected wirelessly through an interface, or they can be small, self-contained devices that accomplish access control on one door at a time.

Simple systems that control only a few doors and serve a small numbers of users may offer only the ability to add and delete users. These units have the same kind of “brains” that a more complex system does, but with less capability. These systems are perfect for applications where audit trail and time zones are unnecessary, but the need to be able to deny access to a single user is needed.

Considerations

1. How many users?How many people will use the system now, and how many may use it in the future? Number of users is the first criteria for choosing an access control system.
2. How many doors?Again, how many doors will have access control now, and how many may have access control in the future?
3. Do you want audit trail capability? Do you want time zones?Audit trail capability allows the administrator to keep track of users as they enter the secured space. The system ‘remembers’ when a user presents their credential to the system. We’ll discuss credentials shortly. Usually through a computer interface, the administrator can access and/or print out a list of ‘events’ including authorized entry, forced entry, and door propped open events.
   Time zones are blocks of time assigned to users. If Bob Smith works from 9am to 5pm and you don’t want him to come in any other time, time zones allow you to make Bob’s credential work only when Bob is authorized to work.
   Audit trail and time zone capabilities usually mean that your access control system will interface with a computer using proprietary software supplied by the access control system manufacturer. It is possible to have these features without software, but that usually means that the administrator must punch in commands on a keypad and download audit trail information directly to a printer. A keypad can be a confusing if not frustrating user interface, and the direct print idea is very time consuming, not to mention a waste of paper.
4. What kind of credential do you want to use?The credential is the thing that the user presents to the access control system. The access control system permits or denies entry to the credential when presented. These are the most common types of credentials that are used today:

• Pin code – a series of numbers. The user sequentially presses numbered keys on a keypad. Advantage: numbers are free. Disadvantage: numbers can be shared over the telephone.If the object is to simply do away with the need to have a key, then a keypad is ideal. All the users can use the same number. Just remember to change the code a few times a year so that the numbers don’t get worn off.
• Mag stripe card – like an ATM or credit card, a plastic card with a black magnetic strip across the back. Advantage: common and widely used as well as inexpensive. Disadvantage: they wear out.
• Prox card – proximity card, a PVC card with a computer chip embedded inside. Currently this is the most popular kind of credential. Advantages: it is possible to get a proximity reader that will read the card through the users pants and wallet or inside a handbag. Also since prox cards do not actually need to touch the reader in most cases, they last a very long time. Disadvantage: more expensive than pin codes or mag stripe cards. A slightly more expensive alternative to the prox card is the prox tag or prox key. The prox key is a small, teardrop-shaped credential that can be put on the user’s key ring.
• Biometrics – actual body parts. Biometric readers use a live fingerprint, handprint, or the retina of the eye as the credential. Advantages: extremely secure and no credentials to buy. Disadvantage: today in July, 2008, this is still relatively new technology to the field of commercial access control, so the number of choices is fairly small and price tags can be sometimes fairly hefty.

5. Do you want emergency lock-down capability?

Emergency lock-down capability is becoming more in demand. Under emergency conditions, such as an armed intruder, it can be an urgently needed function.

Hardwired, PoE, or Wireless?

Hardwired Access Control

This is the model shown in the illustration above. A low voltage power supply is wired to the panel and the panel is wired to the readers. Sometimes a separate power supply may be required for certain kinds of locking locking devices, but the panel will in all cases be wired into the electric locking system. The computer is connected to the access control panel via a cable.

Hardwired systems are the tried-and-true traditional way of achieving access control. Ideally they are installed during construction so that their wiring can be done at the same time as all the other wiring. Adding hardwired access control after the fact can be difficult, particularly, for example, if the space has marble walls and floors and no drop ceiling.

PoE

Power Over Ethernet systems are gaining popularity. These presuppose that there is (or will be) a computer network in place, and require the participation of the system administrator. These systems often use server-based software, so can be controlled from any PC on the network. This is a convenience, but also poses extra security risks. Since the system uses the same kind of cable as the computer network, the same people who run the network cable will run it to the doors to effect access control.

As these kinds of systems have taken hold, electric locking devices that run on PoE have appeared. PoE systems offer a plug-and-play functionality that many find attractive.

Wireless

Wireless access control systems can go where hardwired systems fear to tread. Marble walls, concrete floors, concrete-filled door frames and textured plaster ceilings are suddenly no problem. These systems are made up of battery-operated locks and exit device trims with onboard electronics and transponders. The locks communicate wirelessly over wi-fi through the facility’s computer network with server-based access control software, or through direct RF connection with an interface panel which in turn communicates with the access control panel.

Wireless components can be integrated into existing or new hardwired systems, but licensing fees and special interface panels may be required. Check with your professional security integrator or access control system dealer for more information.
Wireless systems tend not to have the instant lockdown capabilities of hardwired systems. If that feature is important to your application, be sure to question your access control dealer or manufacturer’s representative for more information.

Standalone Access Control

The term “standalone” refers to an access control device that is self-contained instead of connected to a larger system. Such devices can offer advanced features such as time zones, audit trail and programming via personal computer, or they can be simple systems that only allow adding and deleting users. Standalone access control devices can be battery operated or hardwired.
When a standalone access control system is programmed via computer, the computer may need to be brought to the door to do the programming, though some manufacturers offer a hand-held programmer to handle communication between the computer and the device.

Standalone systems that serve a small number of users where no advanced features are required can often be programmed by entering codes on a keypad. For a system with less than 50 users and one or two doors this is a fine choice. The system manager will need to keep track of the users on paper.

During the design phase, how a narrow stile aluminum storefront door will function is often unclear. In these cases, the doors are often shipped with the Adams Rite MS1850 deadbolt. The MS1850 is pictured below with a turn knob cylinder on the inside and a regular key cylinder on the exterior side:

If electronic access control or remote unlocking is desired, the MS1850 deadbolt will most likely need to be replaced by a locking mechanism that will lock automatically and can be electrically released. If the Adams Rite MS1850 deadbolt is installed within the usual range of 34 to 44 inches above the floor, it can be easily replaced with a latch that will lock automatically and work with an electric strike. You can re-use the cylinder left over from the MS1850 in your new latch. Below is an illustration of the door prep that is universal to the Adams Rite MS1850 deadbolt and 4510 and 4900 series latches.

Replacing the Deadbolt With a Latch

On the door side, replacing the MS1850 deadbolt with 4510 or 4900 series latch is easy because the door preps are identical, but you need to match the backset of the latch to the backset of the existing deadbolt.

The common backsets for both the latch and deadbolt are:

• 7/8 inch (rare)
• 31/32 inch
• 1-1/8 inch
• 1-1/2 inch

Note: Choosing the wrong backset makes an otherwise easy installation difficult.

Below is a picture of the Adams Rite 4510 dead latch.

The Adams Rite 4590 Paddle

In smaller spaces, the Adams Rite 4590 and 4591 paddles, used with 4510 or 4900 series latches, are permissible means of egress. For larger spaces, an exit device may be required. Consult your local building inspector or fire marshal to be sure.

The illustration below shows how the 4590 is installed.

Installing an Electric Strike

The illustration below shows the slot that is cut into the door frame to receive the bolt of the MS1850. This slot must be covered up in the course of installing an electric strike.

In the illustration, the path of the latch of the 4510 or 4900 in relation to the strike slot for the MS1850 is shown in gray. Below you can see where a standard 4-7/8-inch electric strike face plate falls short of fully covering the slot. The solution is to install an electric strike with a face plate that is 6-7/8 inches long. Many manufacturers offer 6-7/8 face plates for this reason.

Examples:

• Von Duprin 5200 series
• HES 5000 with 503 face plate
• Adams Rite 7130 or 7430

Electric Strike Frame Prep

The blue rectangle on the diagram below shows how an electric strike with a 6-7/8-inch face plate fully covers the strike slot.

You can also see how much work must be done in order to install the electric strike. It can be done with an electric drill and a file over a matter of hours, or with a high speed hand grinder in less time, but professionals use a plunge router. The result usually requires a small amount of touch up with a file and takes less than an hour.

Major Manufacturing offers a complete installation template kit for Adams Rite locks and electric strikes called the HIT-30, but if you only plan to install an electric strike, you can buy a couple of individual templates to get it done. You will also need a 1/2-inch, 1-1/2 HP router, a 5/16-inch carbide end mill cutting router blade, and a 3/8-inch outside diameter router guide.

When cutting or drilling aluminum, be sure to wear long sleeves and face protection. Those aluminum shavings are hot.

In addition to cutting in the strike prep, mounting tabs will need be installed to accept the mounting screws of the strike as in the illustration above.

Avoiding the Electric Strike

To avoid installing an electric strike, you have at least three choices:

1. Electrified latch
2. Electrified exit device
3. Exit device with surface mount electric strike

The Adams Rite 4300 electric latch lock also retrofits into an existing MS1850 prep and can be used with the 4590 or 4591 paddles. Since the electric function is fully contained in the latch, no electric strike is needed. Wire must be brought into the door via a door loop, electric hinge or power transfer, through the top tube of the door, and down the inside of the lock stile to the latch.

Adams Rite offers an optional surface mounted strike for use with the 4300 to ease installation.

Electrified Exit Device

Electrified exit devices can be an ideal solution when circumstances demand an exit device to comply with life safety code, and they are a reliable, secure, and relatively easy way to electrically lock a door.

When starting with the MS1850 deadbolt, your choice of exit device may be affected by the location of the existing deadbolt.

If the centerline of the deadbolt lock body is between 34 and 42 inches from the floor, you can probably use an Adams Rite 8400 mortise exit device with motorized latch retraction to replace the deadbolt. The 8400 series uses the 4900 series latch that will go right into the existing deadbolt prep. The strike will need to be cut in, but the prep for this strike is much simpler than an electric strike prep. The power wire for the device extends from the hinge side, so no need to run wire across the door.

Other Exit Devices

When the MS1850 deadbolt is higher than 42 inches or lower than 34 inches, the 8400 series exit device may not be code compliant if installed in that location. Installing it in a different location would mean cutting in a new door prep – a lot of work.

You can use the Adams Rite deadbolt blank-up kit (part number BFK-MS1850) to cover the edge prep and a couple of dummy mortise cylinders to fill the cylinder holes and install an exit device elsewhere on the door.

You cannot simply leave the deadbolt and install an exit device in addition. That would be a life safety code violation.

Since you are not using the MS1850 prep, for single doors, you can use a simple rim exit device. Rim exit devices are surface mounted, so they are the easiest to install. You can use an electrified exit device, or you can use a plain exit device with a surface mount electric strike like the HES 9400. The choice depends on where it is easiest to run the wire. If it is easier to get wire to the hinge side, use an electrified rim exit device; if easier to get wire to the lock side, use an electric strike.

All major exit device manufacturers make rim devices for narrow stile aluminum doors, both mechanical and electrified.

With this solution you will generally be unable to re-use the mortise cylinder from the MS1850. You will need a rim cylinder or an exterior lever trim to accept a mortise cylinder, but this mortise cylinder will need a different cam than the MS1850.

Adjusting a Door Closer Yourself

Door closer adjustment is an art that requires knowledge, patience, and an ability to climb up and down a ladder several times, but with these attributes and the appropriate wrench, hex key, or screwdriver, you can do it yourself. This article is primarily about surface-mounted door closers, but the techniques here can be applied to other kinds of door closers as well.

Most of the adjustments are implemented by opening and closing hydraulic valves. When it comes to turning the screws that operate these valves, a little goes a long way. A turn of five degrees can significantly increase or decrease closing speed.

How Door Closers Work

A door closer is a mechanical device designed to close a door slowly but firmly enough to latch. It accomplishes this by using spring tension modulated by hydraulic fluid. As the user opens the door, hydraulic fluid passes from one reservoir to another. As the spring pushes the door closed again, the hydraulic fluid passes back to the previous reservoir through a series of valves that control the speed.

The illustration above shows the effects of the common hydraulic adjustment controls available on most commercial-grade door closers. Controls for swing speed and latching speed control how fast the door closes. Many closers also feature a hydraulic control for back check that controls the last few inches of the opening the door so as to prevent the door from being slammed into an adjacent wall.

• Swing speed adjustment controls how fast the door closes from fully open to within about five degrees of closed.
• Latching speed adjustment controls how fast the door closes for those last few inches.
• Back check adjustment controls the amount of resistance to opening the door past a selected point.

The illustration below shows the various hydraulic control valves. These might be located in many configurations, but you will usually see the back check control located somewhat away from the latch speed and swing speed controls.

There are also door closers equipped with an additional valve for delayed action. Delayed action closers hold the door open for a longer period of time to allow persons with disabilities more time to get through the door.

Control Valve Placement

Notice the spring tension adjustment in the illustration above. Spring tension controls the “size” of a closer. The term is misleading because it does not actually have anything to do with the physical dimensions of the closer. This type of size is determined by the width of a door.

“Sized” closers—that is, closers that have a factory-predetermined spring tension for a particular door width—have no spring tension adjustment. Many door closers today are “non-sized,” indicating that you can adjust the spring tension to fit the size of the door.

It is tempting to use the spring tension adjustment to solve problems—for example, in positive pressure situations where airflow is preventing the door from closing properly. However, the tighter you make the spring, the harder it will be to open the door. It is possible to tighten the spring tension so that some people will not be able to open the door.

How to Adjust a Door Closer

1. Bring a step ladder tall enough so that you can easily reach the door closer to the second- or third-highest step.
2. Climb the ladder and examine the closer. If you can’t see adjustment screws, chances are the closer has a cover. Usually, the cover is plastic, but it could also be metal. If you see no fasteners holding the cover on, that means the cover is held on by tension. Pull it off. If you do see fasteners, usually you can loosen, but not remove, the fasteners, and the cover will slide off.
3. If you find that there is oil in the cover or oil on or leaking from the closer body, stop right now. You need a new door closer. If, however, it is not leaking, you can proceed.
4. Now that you have the cover off, you should be able to see the adjustment screws. If you are lucky, they will be marked on the closer body as to what they are, or there will be a diagram inside the cover. If not, you may have to experiment a little to see which is which.
5. Remember, when it comes to turning door closer adjustment screws, a little goes a long way. Start with no more than 1/8 of a turn. Turn the adjustment screw clockwise to slow the door closer down, counter-clockwise to speed it up, then get down off the ladder and observe the effect.
6. Open the door and watch it close. If it closes right the first time, check it 10 more times. If it closes correctly every time, you’re done. If not, go back up the ladder and make another adjustment until the closer is doing what you want it to do.
7. When it closes the way you want 10 times in a row, it will probably continue to do so.
8. Ideally, a non-delayed action door closer will close and latch the door in seven to eight seconds.

What if the door is really hard to open?

All door closers exert force against opening. If the force needed to open the door is excessive, and the spring tension of the door closer is adjustable, the level of force exerted by the spring can be reduced. Some door closers have preset spring tension. These have sizes according to the strength of their spring.

For example, on an exterior door that is three feet wide, one would usually use a size four door closer. If one used that same closer on a door that is thirty inches wide, one might find that opening the door has become difficult.

Another reason the door closer might make the door hard to open is that it is installed incorrectly. For example, if the arm were attached to the spindle in the wrong position, or if the closer was installed in the wrong location, it might make the door hard to open.

What if the door is hard to close?

If the closer stops closing the door before it’s closed all the way, or actually springs back when you try to manually shut the door, the arm is probably installed on the shaft incorrectly. Download the instructions from the door closer manufacturer’s website and see if it is installed correctly.

What are some other door closer issues?

If there is a hinge problem, a warped door, or the door must swing uphill to close, a door closer will only go so far to solve the problem. Sometimes a door must be repaired before it will close and lock automatically with a door closer.

Is it normal for the arm to bounce when the door is moving?

If the arm bounces up and down while the door is in motion and/or makes noise, tighten the fasteners that hold the arm to the closer, to the header, and at the knuckle that holds the two parts of the arm together.

Why are my vestibule doors so susceptible to closing issues?

In vestibule conditions, there is an exterior door, a small space, and then an interior door. The trapped air between the inside and outside door can be a factor in door closing. You may have to adjust both closers to get both to work correctly.

Wherever air pressure is a factor, including negative or positive pressure situations, I have have been able to get door closers to close and latch the door consistently by adjusting them to a slow swing-speed and a somewhat fast latch-speed. The slow swing speed seems to give the air a chance to get out of the way, and the fast latch speed gives it a very slight slam at the end to make sure it latches.

It’s Time to Replace Your Door Closer When …

• Oil is leaking from your door closer. Throw it away and buy a new one.
• Your door closer is slamming the door and cannot be adjusted to do otherwise; either the fluid has leaked out, or the valve seals are worn out. Either way, your best option is to replace it.
• The door closer has no spring tension, and the spring tension adjustment turns round and round with no effect. The spring is broken, and the door closer must be replaced.

Below top: Dorma TS93 / middle: Sargent 422 / bottom: Norton 2800ST

Cam Action Advantages

High Efficiency:
According to Sargent, their model 422 cam action closer “has the highest efficiency of any surface mounted door closer on the market today. This means that a door equipped with this closer will feel light to open and have plenty of power to overcome stack pressure or other problems at latch.”

ADA Compliance:
Norton states the ADA compliance advantage of cam action door closers most clearly: “cam action provides much lower opening resistance while delivering optimum closing force and control. The door closer’s wide range of adjustable closing power permits use in the most demanding situations. The efficiency and flat power curve
comply with the opening force requirements of the Americans with Disabilities Act (ADA).”

Since ADA opening force requirements are a constant, compliance is measurable. Stack pressure affects are variable and more difficult to measure. I wish I had better advice than ‘try it and see,’ but I am hopeful that cam action closers may prove an effective remedy for resistant stack pressure closing issues.

Appearance:
Many architects and designers prefer track closers over closers with double lever arms because there is no arm to protrude into the space on in-swing or top jamb mounted out-swing applications, or, in parallel arm applications, necessitate a drop plate to make space.

Cam Action Design

Above, the drawing from the Sargent 422 catalog shows the internal design of their cam action closer. “Closing forces are applied to the spindle through the continuous smooth surface of the cam and hardened roller bearing follower. The dual pistons’ simplified design provides a superior internal seal and reduced friction within the closer.”

Von Duprin concealed cable devices have been around a while and are becoming more popular. In addition to 98/99 series devices, they also offer 33/35 series concealed cable devices. According to Allegion, these are the main advantages of concealed cable:

• Designed to maintain positive latching even if alignment is not perfect due to changing door conditions
• Significantly less maintenance than traditional vertical rod
• Replacement parts are available- entire assembly can be removed and reinstalled while door is hanging in a matter of minutes

This from the Von Duprin Concealed Cable Datasheet:

“If a simple repair or modification is required,
the cable system and latches can be removed
and reinstalled by one person without removing
the door from the frame.”

That’s a big deal.

Both top and bottom cables vary by height range:

• Top Cable Assembly Door Opening Heights 6’0″ to 6’10”
• Top Cable Assembly Door Opening Heights 6’10” to 8’0″
• Top Cable Assembly Door Opening Heights >8’0″ to 9’2″
• Top Cable Assembly Door Opening Heights >9’2″ to 10’4″
• Bottom Cable Assembly Door Opening Heights 6’0″ to 6’10”
• Bottom Cable Assembly Door Opening Heights 6’10” to 8’0″
• Bottom Cable Assembly Door Opening Heights >8’0″ to 9’2″
• Bottom Cable Assembly Door Opening Heights >9’2″ to 10’4″

Depending upon the height of the door, cable systems allow for ten to up to fourteen inches of adjustability. So if you are a little off on your height measurement, all is not necessarily lost. The height must fall within the range of adjustability. For example, if you order a device for an 96-inch tall door, you may have a problem if it is actually 99 inches tall.

Traditional concealed vertical rod devices (for example, 33/3547 and 98/9947) can be converted from concealed vertical rod to concealed vertical cable using the Complete Cable System package. Complete cable systems include top and bottom strikes and latches, center slides, cables and mounting packs. The part numbers for the packages are configured this way, according to the Von Duprin 2021 price book:

[exit device part number] CS [door height]

Example part number: 9949-CS-84

The install instructions for a 9949 series device show that no special tools are required for installation other than the included sizing spacer, and the cable removal tool (also included) in case you goof. Cable installation is a 15-step process.

These are not devices to install by intuition. FOLLOW THE DIRECTIONS. And good luck.