How to Adjust a Hydraulic Door Closer

Adjusting a Door Closer Yourself

Door closer adjustment is an art that requires knowledge, patience, and an ability to climb up and down a ladder several times, but with these attributes and the appropriate wrench, hex key, or screwdriver, you can do it yourself. This article is primarily about surface-mounted door closers, but the techniques here can be applied to other kinds of door closers as well.

Most of the adjustments are implemented by opening and closing hydraulic valves. When it comes to turning the screws that operate these valves, a little goes a long way. A turn of five degrees can significantly increase or decrease closing speed.

How Door Closers Work

A door closer is a mechanical device designed to close a door slowly but firmly enough to latch. It accomplishes this by using spring tension modulated by hydraulic fluid. As the user opens the door, hydraulic fluid passes from one reservoir to another. As the spring pushes the door closed again, the hydraulic fluid passes back to the previous reservoir through a series of valves that control the speed.

The illustration above shows the effects of the common hydraulic adjustment controls available on most commercial-grade door closers. Controls for swing speed and latching speed control how fast the door closes. Many closers also feature a hydraulic control for back check that controls the last few inches of the opening the door so as to prevent the door from being slammed into an adjacent wall.

  • Swing speed adjustment controls how fast the door closes from fully open to within about five degrees of closed.
  • Latching speed adjustment controls how fast the door closes for those last few inches.
  • Back check adjustment controls the amount of resistance to opening the door past a selected point.

The illustration below shows the various hydraulic control valves. These might be located in many configurations, but you will usually see the back check control located somewhat away from the latch speed and swing speed controls.

There are also door closers equipped with an additional valve for delayed action. Delayed action closers hold the door open for a longer period of time to allow persons with disabilities more time to get through the door.

Control Valve Placement

Notice the spring tension adjustment in the illustration above. Spring tension controls the “size” of a closer. The term is misleading because it does not actually have anything to do with the physical dimensions of the closer. This type of size is determined by the width of a door.

“Sized” closers—that is, closers that have a factory-predetermined spring tension for a particular door width—have no spring tension adjustment. Many door closers today are “non-sized,” indicating that you can adjust the spring tension to fit the size of the door.

It is tempting to use the spring tension adjustment to solve problems—for example, in positive pressure situations where airflow is preventing the door from closing properly. However, the tighter you make the spring, the harder it will be to open the door. It is possible to tighten the spring tension so that some people will not be able to open the door.

How to Adjust a Door Closer

  1. Bring a step ladder tall enough so that you can easily reach the door closer to the second- or third-highest step.
  2. Climb the ladder and examine the closer. If you can’t see adjustment screws, chances are the closer has a cover. Usually, the cover is plastic, but it could also be metal. If you see no fasteners holding the cover on, that means the cover is held on by tension. Pull it off. If you do see fasteners, usually you can loosen, but not remove, the fasteners, and the cover will slide off.
  3. If you find that there is oil in the cover or oil on or leaking from the closer body, stop right now. You need a new door closer. If, however, it is not leaking, you can proceed.
  4. Now that you have the cover off, you should be able to see the adjustment screws. If you are lucky, they will be marked on the closer body as to what they are, or there will be a diagram inside the cover. If not, you may have to experiment a little to see which is which.
  5. Remember, when it comes to turning door closer adjustment screws, a little goes a long way. Start with no more than 1/8 of a turn. Turn the adjustment screw clockwise to slow the door closer down, counter-clockwise to speed it up, then get down off the ladder and observe the effect.
  6. Open the door and watch it close. If it closes right the first time, check it 10 more times. If it closes correctly every time, you’re done. If not, go back up the ladder and make another adjustment until the closer is doing what you want it to do.
  7. When it closes the way you want 10 times in a row, it will probably continue to do so.
  8. Ideally, a non-delayed action door closer will close and latch the door in seven to eight seconds.

What if the door is really hard to open?

All door closers exert force against opening. If the force needed to open the door is excessive, and the spring tension of the door closer is adjustable, the level of force exerted by the spring can be reduced. Some door closers have preset spring tension. These have sizes according to the strength of their spring.

For example, on an exterior door that is three feet wide, one would usually use a size four door closer. If one used that same closer on a door that is thirty inches wide, one might find that opening the door has become difficult.

Another reason the door closer might make the door hard to open is that it is installed incorrectly. For example, if the arm were attached to the spindle in the wrong position, or if the closer was installed in the wrong location, it might make the door hard to open.

What if the door is hard to close?

If the closer stops closing the door before it’s closed all the way, or actually springs back when you try to manually shut the door, the arm is probably installed on the shaft incorrectly. Download the instructions from the door closer manufacturer’s website and see if it is installed correctly.

What are some other door closer issues?

If there is a hinge problem, a warped door, or the door must swing uphill to close, a door closer will only go so far to solve the problem. Sometimes a door must be repaired before it will close and lock automatically with a door closer.

Is it normal for the arm to bounce when the door is moving?

If the arm bounces up and down while the door is in motion and/or makes noise, tighten the fasteners that hold the arm to the closer, to the header, and at the knuckle that holds the two parts of the arm together.

Why are my vestibule doors so susceptible to closing issues?

In vestibule conditions, there is an exterior door, a small space, and then an interior door. The trapped air between the inside and outside door can be a factor in door closing. You may have to adjust both closers to get both to work correctly.

Wherever air pressure is a factor, including negative or positive pressure situations, I have have been able to get door closers to close and latch the door consistently by adjusting them to a slow swing-speed and a somewhat fast latch-speed. The slow swing speed seems to give the air a chance to get out of the way, and the fast latch speed gives it a very slight slam at the end to make sure it latches.

It’s Time to Replace Your Door Closer When …

  • Oil is leaking from your door closer. Throw it away and buy a new one.
  • Your door closer is slamming the door and cannot be adjusted to do otherwise; either the fluid has leaked out, or the valve seals are worn out. Either way, your best option is to replace it.
  • The door closer has no spring tension, and the spring tension adjustment turns round and round with no effect. The spring is broken, and the door closer must be replaced.

Cam Action Door Closers

Below top: Dorma TS93 / middle: Sargent 422 / bottom: Norton 2800ST

Cam Action Advantages

High Efficiency:
According to Sargent, their model 422 cam action closer “has the highest efficiency of any surface mounted door closer on the market today. This means that a door equipped with this closer will feel light to open and have plenty of power to overcome stack pressure or other problems at latch.”

ADA Compliance:
Norton states the ADA compliance advantage of cam action door closers most clearly: “cam action provides much lower opening resistance while delivering optimum closing force and control. The door closer’s wide range of adjustable closing power permits use in the most demanding situations. The efficiency and flat power curve
comply with the opening force requirements of the Americans with Disabilities Act (ADA).”

Since ADA opening force requirements are a constant, compliance is measurable. Stack pressure affects are variable and more difficult to measure. I wish I had better advice than ‘try it and see,’ but I am hopeful that cam action closers may prove an effective remedy for resistant stack pressure closing issues.

Appearance:
Many architects and designers prefer track closers over closers with double lever arms because there is no arm to protrude into the space on in-swing or top jamb mounted out-swing applications, or, in parallel arm applications, necessitate a drop plate to make space.

Cam Action Design

Above, the drawing from the Sargent 422 catalog shows the internal design of their cam action closer. “Closing forces are applied to the spindle through the continuous smooth surface of the cam and hardened roller bearing follower. The dual pistons’ simplified design provides a superior internal seal and reduced friction within the closer.”

Von Duprin Concealed Cable Exit Devices

drawing from Von Duprin 98/9947, 98/9949,& 98/9950 Series Exit Devices Service manual

Von Duprin concealed cable devices have been around a while and are becoming more popular. In addition to 98/99 series devices, they also offer 33/35 series concealed cable devices. According to Allegion, these are the main advantages of concealed cable:

  • Designed to maintain positive latching even if alignment is not perfect due to changing door conditions
  • Significantly less maintenance than traditional vertical rod
  • Replacement parts are available- entire assembly can be removed and reinstalled while door is hanging in a matter of minutes

This from the Von Duprin Concealed Cable Datasheet:

“If a simple repair or modification is required,
the cable system and latches can be removed
and reinstalled by one person without removing
the door from the frame.”

That’s a big deal.

Both top and bottom cables vary by height range:

  • Top Cable Assembly Door Opening Heights 6’0″ to 6’10”
  • Top Cable Assembly Door Opening Heights 6’10” to 8’0″
  • Top Cable Assembly Door Opening Heights >8’0″ to 9’2″
  • Top Cable Assembly Door Opening Heights >9’2″ to 10’4″
  • Bottom Cable Assembly Door Opening Heights 6’0″ to 6’10”
  • Bottom Cable Assembly Door Opening Heights 6’10” to 8’0″
  • Bottom Cable Assembly Door Opening Heights >8’0″ to 9’2″
  • Bottom Cable Assembly Door Opening Heights >9’2″ to 10’4″

Depending upon the height of the door, cable systems allow for ten to up to fourteen inches of adjustability. So if you are a little off on your height measurement, all is not necessarily lost. The height must fall within the range of adjustability. For example, if you order a device for an 96-inch tall door, you may have a problem if it is actually 99 inches tall.

Traditional concealed vertical rod devices (for example, 33/3547 and 98/9947) can be converted from concealed vertical rod to concealed vertical cable using the Complete Cable System package. Complete cable systems include top and bottom strikes and latches, center slides, cables and mounting packs. The part numbers for the packages are configured this way, according to the Von Duprin 2021 price book:

[exit device part number] CS [door height]

Example part number: 9949-CS-84

The install instructions for a 9949 series device show that no special tools are required for installation other than the included sizing spacer, and the cable removal tool (also included) in case you goof. Cable installation is a 15-step process.

These are not devices to install by intuition. FOLLOW THE DIRECTIONS. And good luck.

Electric Strike Monitors: LBM and LBSM

Exploded view of Von Duprin 6211 with Dual Switch option.
From Von Duprin 6211 installation instructions.

LBM stands for Latch Bolt Monitor. LBSM stands for Latch Bolt and Strike Monitor, also known as LBCM and DS, depending on the manufacturer. There are probably other variations as well.

In the illustration above is shown the Von Duprin 6211. The labeled parts, “Tripper” and “Extension,” are used when the strike is equipped with the DS (dual switch) option. The DS option is Von Duprins version of LBSM. The Tripper is a piece of metal that changes the state of a switch when it is depressed by the spring-loaded force of a latch bolt when it drops into the keeper. Most other strikes use similar mechanisms to detect the presence of the latch bolt.

LBM will tell you if there is not a latch bolt present in the keeper. LBSM will tell you if there is no latch bolt present in the keeper and/or the strike itself is not in the fully locked position. Neither of these would tell you if the door is ajar. So LBM and LBSM are not true substitutes for a door position switch.

And, if someone stuffs the keeper with something to effectively keep the door unlocked or fool it into thinking there was a latch bolt there, it won’t tell you anything. On the other hand, if you don’t have LBM, someone can tape the latch back with duct tape you would have no way of knowing. The door position switch will tell you the door is closed, but you need the LBM to tell you it’s latched. The LBSM can provide you with the additional information that the electric strike is not properly locked; perhaps the keeper is not closed all the way or the internal parts are not all the way in the locked position.



A Few Strange Hinges

Interim Hinge by McKinney

Interim Hinge

Above is pictured an interim hinge, used when your door and your frame have different sized hinge preps. For example, your frame is prepped for a five-inch by four-and-a-half inch hinge and your door is prepped for a four-and-a-half by four-and-a-half inch hinge. Why would you need such a thing? Inability to read a tape measure, perhaps?

Wide Throw Hinge

Wide Throw Hinge by McKinney

The hinge above is a wide throw hinge, used when you have a thick molding applied to the pull side face of the door frame. My illustration below shows the difference.

Sometimes people order wide throw hinges by accident because they do not know how to properly measure a full mortise hinge. Full mortise hinges are measured height first, then width. Wide throw hinges have a width that is greater than the height whereas standard hinges do not So if, for example, you order a 5 x 4-1/2 inch hinge you are getting a standard hinge and if you order a 4-1/2 x 5 inch hinge you are getting a wide throw hinge.

Half Mortise and Half Surface Hinges

Half Mortise and Half Surface HInges by McKinney

In the picture above, the half mortise hinge is on the left and the half surface hinge is on the right. As you can see by the “application’ drawings below each hinge, the half mortise hinge has the mortise prep on the door, and the half surface has the mortise prep on the frame. You can tell the half mortise at a glance because the surface leaf is narrow, for installation on the surface of the frame.



The Diverse World of Overhead Stops and Holders

Clockwise beginning at top left: surface mounted GJ 70 and 79 series and Rixson 7 series; Rixson 6 series concealed; bottom right, GJ 81 series surface mount; bottom center, ABH 3400 series with side jamb bracket; bottom left, GJ 90 series surface mount; and above that, ABH 1000A series.

For some applications there is no truly adequate substitute for an overhead stop. Yet many times they are omitted from from hardware schedules where they should be used. But unless concealed OH stops are included at the design stage, retrofitting surface stops to a job after the fact can present a significant challenge.

All overhead stops and holders are designed to accomplish basically the same goals, but in differing situations. If it is a stop, its purpose is to stop the door before it hits something, usually a wall. If it is a stop and holder, its purpose is to stop the door and, under the right circumstances, hold the door open. Overhead stops protect the door closer arm, and they can also make it more possible for the door closer to shut the door in high winds when the stop is templated to allow the door to open to 90 degrees or less. Maximum degree of opening with an overhead stop tends to be in 110 degree range.

Installation of surface-mounted models is simple except when a door closer is involved. Then an amount of thinking and/or additional parts may be required. This is one of the main reasons overhead stops are not often used. However, in at least one circumstance there is no comparable substitute; that is, exterior, high-use, out-swinging doors that are frequently exposed to high winds.

Most overhead stops are sized according to door width and type of hinge used, for example, you would use a 792S (size 2) for a butt hung door with an opening width of 23-1/16 inches through 27 inches, and a 793S for a door with butt hinges that is 27-1/16 inches wide through 33 inches wide. This is information found in the installation instructions. There are also adjustable overhead stops available from most manufacturers; one example is the ABH 1000A series.

The sections below discuss a few of overhead stops shown in the illustration at the top of this article.

Glynn Johnson 70 and 79 Series

Glynn Johnson 70 and 79 Series Surface Mount Overhead Stops
The 70 series is heavy duty and the 79 is extra-heavy duty. These are overhead stops for doors that are regularly exposed to high winds and/or abuse.

At left is a drawing of the 79 Series installed. You can see the problem of where to put the door closer.


One solution might be the LCN 1460 with 62A shoe that significantly lowers the door closer on the door as shown below:

LCN 1460 with 62A shoe and 70 series LCN overhead stop

The drawing above comes from a GJ / LCN applications guide I stumbled upon many years ago. If you look at overhead stop installation instructions, you’ll see they don’t mention a door closer. I have searched for other guides that show door closers with overhead stops, but I have found none.

If you have an aluminum-and-glass narrow stile storefront door with a 3-1/2-inch top rail, you can see that dropping the door closer this much might be a problem. At best, there would need to be a drop plate added that would show through the glass. Not pretty. Another common solution with all surface mount overhead stops is to install the stop on the push side of the door and the closer on the pull side – a viable choice on interior doors, but not usually on exterior doors.

Glynn Johnson 90 Series

Glynn Johnson 90 Series Surface Mounted Overhead Stops
This is the most common type of surface mounted overhead stop, and all overhead stop manufacturer’s make something like it.

In the drawing above you can see the space it takes up on the door. Here’s how it translates into an application with a door closer:

GJ 90 Series with LCN 1460 closer mounted top jamb
Side View, GJ 90 with LCN 1460 series

As you can see, this is not too bad as hardware conflicts go. The measurements are tight, but do-able.

Rixson 7 Series

Rixson Series 7 Surface Mount Overhead Stops
Rixson doesn’t talk much about this overhead stop in their catalog. They say it is ‘industrial duty,’ so, I guess, it must be well suited for high use and abuse environments like factories and warehouses. Much like the heavy spring on the GJ 70 series above, the cantilever design works as a shock-absorber. I included it because if its unique design, which is to say it looks kind of cool.

Rixson 7 Series

Rixson 6 Series Concealed Overhead Stops
All overhead stop manufacturers make concealed overhead stops.

Concealed overhead stops have the distinct advantage that they interfere much less with the door closer installation, however they often make a difficult retrofit, especially on wood doors, sometimes requiring that the door be taken down so the mortise for the track can be cut in.

On a fire rated door this would most likely void the rating.

Rixson 6 Series

Like most Rixson overhead stops, the 6 Series is also available as the 6ADJ Series adjustable version.

Shock absorption is achieved by a heavy spring inside the track. The spring engages at the last seven inches of swing, affording a significant layer of protection for the door closer.

From the Rixson 6 Series install instructions.

The picture taken from the Rixson 6 Series installation instructions shows how much real estate is left on the door for a door closer, and illustrates how much better it is to be working with a concealed overhead stop rather than a surface mounted one.



Choosing a Power Supply for Electric Locking Devices

Allegion PS904 Power Supply with optional boards.

There are many ways to lock a door electrically. Here are a few of the most popular:

  • Electric Strike
  • Electromagnetic Lock
  • Electrified lock
  • Electric Latch Retraction exit device

Voltage and Current

Two main factors are universal in choosing a power supply, but some kinds of electric locking devices require special considerations. The first universal consideration is the voltage required by your electric devices. The second is the amount of current drawn by these devices.

As of this writing, most strikes, magnets and locks are field selectable for a variety of voltages, mostly 12 or 24 VDC. Some are not field selectable. Almost all electric latch retraction exit devices are 24 VDC. The important factor is, what voltage will be used to power the devices. Voltage is important (aside from the fact that running an electric device on the wrong voltage may cause a fire) because voltage affects current draw. Current draw (measured in Amperes, or ‘Amps’) determines the need for power supply capacity.

Following are examples of how the voltage affects current draw:

HES 1500 series electric strike:

  • .24 Amps @ 12 VDC
  • .12 Amps @ 24 VDC

Schlage Electronics M490 electromagnetic lock:

  • .65A @ 12 VDC
  • .35A @ 24 VDC

SDC 7800 series electrified mortise lock:

  • 600 mA @ 12VDC
  • 300 mA @ 24VDC

Yes, there is a trend here. 12VDC draws twice as much current as 24VDC. Good to know. A little clarification may be in order:

.24 Amps = 240 mA

Now that we have that cleared up, let’s say that we have a six-door access control project and we’re using 24VDC. On four of the doors we’ll use the HES 1500; on one door we’ll use the M490 mag and on the last door we’ll use the SDC 7800 electrified mortise lock.

Just for variety, let’s add a Sargent 80 series exit device with motorized latch retraction:

  • 1 amp @ 24VDC

The arithmetic looks like this:

.12 + .12 + .12 + .12 + .35 + .30 + 1 = 2.13 Amps total current draw

You want to allow at least a 25% cushion so that the power supply does not have to work too hard. Therefore, rounding up, a 3-Amp power supply would be a safe bet.

Distance of Wire Run

The distance between the power supply and the appliance to be powered is also an important factor. It may determine how many power supplies you need.

Using an online voltage drop calculator I was able to determine that a 1,000-foot wire run (one-way) using 18-gauge two-conductor wire, with a current draw of 120 mA, the voltage drop will be less than 1 percent. With a 1-Amp current draw, and all other parameters the same, the voltage drop would be about 27 percent. Therefore, whereas the 1,000-foot wire run would not be a factor to run one HES 1500 strike a 120 mA, it would be a factor in powering the Sargent exit device with electric latch retraction at 1 Amp at that distance. This might mean that a separate power supply would be installed much closer to the Sargent and another power supply could power all the other devices.

Voltage drop can be managed to a degree by increasing the gauge of the wire. Using the Sargent electric latch retraction example, this time using 12-gauge wire instead of 18-gauge wire, voltage drop on a 1,000-foot one-way wire run would be 14 percent instead of 27 percent. Using thicker wire combined with moving the power supply closer to the device can mean the difference between a system that works well for years and one that soon fails.

Electric Latch Retraction Exit Devices

In many cases the industry has shifted away from solenoid-driven electric latch retraction exit devices and moving more and more toward motor-driven latch retraction. Nevertheless, those solenoid-driven devices are still out there and many are still being sold. From a power supply point of view, it is very important to understand the difference.

When solenoids are activated, the draw an “inrush” of high current for a fraction of a second. For example, a Von Duprin EL99 rim exit device draws 15 Amps at 24 VDC for one third of a second, requiring it to have a special power supply. Their power supply for this application is the PS914-2RS, which will power up to two EL devices. What makes the power supply special is (1) the circuit board equipped with capacitors that gather the current and release it when it’s big enough to do the job and (2) a delay timer that allows the power supply to power up two devices one at a time, one-third of a second apart.

There are other power supplies that will work in this application: the Altronix STRIKEIT series power supplies, or the Command Access PS220 with PM300 power booster are two such. Each will power up to two solenoid driven electric latch retraction exit devices.

As shown earlier in this article, motorized latch retraction exit devices also draw more current than other kinds of electric locking devices. However, they draw much less current than solenoid driven latch retraction exit devices. Most manufacturers say to allow 1 amp per device. Check the install instructions for your particular device to be sure.

Options

Following are some accessories you can add to make your power supply easier to install and/or service, or to add functionality.

Power Distribution Board

If you have a power supply with one or two sets of outputs and need more outputs, you can add a power distribution board. The power distribution board distributes power evenly among several sets of output contacts. This can come in handy when troubleshooting a power supply that is powering multiple devices.

Altronix PD4 power distribution board.

Relay Board

Relays are electrically operated switches. You flick the lights on in your room with your finger. Instead of a finger, the relay uses electricity. Relays typically draw a very small amount of electrical current. This can be useful in a variety of applications.

Security Door Controls relay board.

One example is in a simple access control system, where a receptionist pushes a button to activate an exit device with electric latch retraction that draws 1 Amp, 150 feet away. Instead of of running 1-Amp current from the power supply to the pushbutton, from the pushbutton to the device, and from the device back to the power supply, use the pushbutton to trigger a relay in the power supply to power the device. Only the few milliamps needed to power the relay will run back to the pushbutton. This makes the system much safer for the receptionist and avoids any voltage drop problems from the extra wire run back to the pushbutton.

Fire Alarm Relay

The fire alarm relay option allows connection to the fire alarm panel, so that in the event of an alarm the panel can shut off the power supply.

Logic Board

Logic boards are boards with multiple relays and internal switches. These are used to perform more complex functions, such as activating electric latch retraction exit devices and then, a fraction of a second later, activating an automatic door opener.

Timers

There are two main types of timers found in power supplies that are used with electric locking devices: 24-hour timers and delay timers.

24-hour timers are used to keep doors locked or unlocked for variable periods at specific times. Typically these timers can be programmed for a number of lock or unlock events. Simpler units might be used to unlock a door in the morning and then lock it back up at night every day. More versatile units can be programmed to behave differently on weekends and holidays.

Delay timers are used to time the re-locking of the electric device after it has been activated. For example, the receptionist pushes the button at her desk and immediately lets go. The timer powers the electric strike for six or seconds to allow the visitor time to push the door open.

Securitron DT-7 timer

EPT vs. Electric Through-Wire Hinge, Revisited

Securitron CEPT

The choice between an electric through-wire hinge and an electric power transfer (EPT) is one of convenience vs. durability.  Whereas the hinge requires almost no prep, the EPT does.  However, the EPT is designed to minimize stress on the wires and the electrified through-wire hinge is not. 

Every time the door is opened, the wire in the electric hinge is unbent and bent at least ninety degrees. With an EPT, the wire is bent at a much gentler angle. This difference translates into a big difference in durability in high traffic applications.

Command Access electric through-wire hinge

SDC electric through-wire hinges are UL Listed for 100,000 cycles. That means if the door were used 200 times a day for 500 days, one might expect the wires to break sometime after day 501 or so – or a life span of about a year and a half in this unusually high usage environment. Electric through-wire hinges, therefore, may not be the best choice for doors that experience very high traffic volume. The Assa Abloy EPT is rated at three million cycles, or fifteen times that of the hinge – that is, in the 200 cycles per day scenario, about twenty-two years vs. a year and a half.

This difference in durability is illustrated by the evolution of continuous hinges with through-wire electrification. Because the wires eventually break, hinge manufacturers now offer removable panels that contain the wire, so that when the wire breaks the entire 7-foot hinge need not be replaced; just the panel. While it is fairly cheap and easy to replace a 4-1/2 x 4-1/2 electric hinge, replacing a full height electrified continuous hinge is not. Replacing the removable panel is not the easiest process either, but it is much less expensive than replacing the whole hinge.

With continuous hinges as well as regular hinges, the EPT remains the far more durable choice. All continuous hinge manufacturers offer their hinges prepped for EPT; most require handing and location of prep when ordering. The projected life span of an EPT in a continuous hinge is in numbers of decades. But if you ever do have to replace one, it’s relatively easy.




Occupancy Indicators

In 2018 we have seen a sharp increase in choices available for occupancy indicators for mortise locks. Goodness knows the world can always use more occupancy indicators. One might say that us hardware geniuses now have a dizzying array of indicators available to meet your occupancy indication application needs. Following are some examples of the new choices.

The Schlage lock company advanced with new “180 degree visibility” indicator offerings for their L Series mortise locks, including the new N escutcheon with indicator. Four signage options are available, and indicators are available for use on both the insides and outsides of doors. For example, on a classroom intruder application, LOCKED/UNLOCKED indicators can be installed on both sides of the door, or on a nursing mother’s room, a LOCKED/UNLOCKED indicator inside to reassure the mom, and a DO NOT DISTURB or OCCUPIED indicator outside to stop folks from barging in.

“180 degree visibility” is accomplished by additional indicator windows on the edge of the indicator unit that are visible from the side.
There are many models in this offering of indicators: one for each combination of interior or exterior multiplied by four possible signage choices and for use with either cylinder, emergency screwdriver slot or turn piece.

These indicators are usable with many, but not all L Series functions.   Schlage still offers their original model 09-611 indicator that is included with some mortise lock functions.  Consult your Schlage commercial price book or favorite door hardware genius for more information.

Sargent and Corbin have also increased their indicator offerings for their mortise locks, expanding them to more functions with more signage options, and now including escutcheon trims as well. 

One option offered by Assa Abloy and not by Allegion at this time is escutcheons engraved with the word, “LOCK,” and an arrow indicating the direction one needs to turn the key to lock the door.  This option would perhaps be most notably used for classroom intruder functions, wherein the outside trim is locked from inside the classroom with a key during a security emergency.  The inside trim remains unlocked for safe egress. 

Like the new Allegion indicators, the new Assa Abloy indicator offerings work with select functions and have variable part numbers that reflect the different signage, placement and function of the indicator. 

Usually occupancy indicators can be added to existing locks, as long as the indicator is compatible with the function of the lock.  Replacing a plain escutcheon with an indicator escutcheon is a bit pricier and installation is more complex, but it can be done, once again, if the chosen indicator trim is compatible with the existing hardware.

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Ligature Resistant Door Hardware

Left: Marks USA Lifesaver series. Right: TownSteel MRXA series.

Ligature resistant, otherwise known as anti-ligature or behavioral health door hardware is designed to make it difficult for folks to use it for suicide by hanging or otherwise harming themselves or others.  Pictured adjacent are cylindrical knob and lever locks by Marks USA and a mortise lock by TownSteel.

All are designed to resist attempts to hang oneself.  The cylindrical lever and knob locks feature more or less conical designs that cause a cord to slide off of them regardless of how one might try to tie it on.  The lever turns freely even when locked, achieving the same result.  The mortise lock uses a conical cylinder collar and sloped trim to achieve ligature resistance.  The opening in the pull is closed by a steel plate, making it impossible to pass a cord through it.  The exposed fasteners are security fasteners that require a special tool to loosen, and they fit flat and flush to the escutcheon and lock front.

When you sell or install ligature resistant hardware it is best not to modify the product in any way, because in doing so you will assume all responsibility for anything that happens as a result involving the hardware.  This can include disassembling a cylindrical lock to rekey it.  For this reason I recommend that when keyed anti-ligature locks are specified they are specified as interchangeable or removable core locks.

Ligature resistant hinges have hinge tips called “hospital tips” that are sloped to discourage suicide attempts (see McKinney hinge adjacent).  Security screws also help keep folks safe by making it difficult to use the hinge to hurt oneself or others.   Select Hinge offers a little gem called the “Tipit” for continuous hinges that makes continuous hinges ligature resistant.

Increasingly I field inquiries for ligature resistant door closers for butt or offset hung doors, but to my knowledge there is no such animal as of this writing.  Various factory tech support people have recommended overhead concealed security closers for ligature resistant applications, and this seems to be the consensus at this time.

I believe that using doors that are center hung with single acting, concealed overhead or floor closers would be safer and would eliminate the need for anti-ligature hinges; but this is impractical for retrofit applications where butt or offset hung doors are already present in abundance.

In the illustration below I show why I feel a center hung, concealed, single acting door closer would be the best choice for ligature resistance.





In door hardware, safety is the most important consideration.

 

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