door hardware » Door Hardware Genius

The “Passage Set”

September 9, 2011 builders hardware / door hardware / hardware sales wars / Life Safety Hardware

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Often, when customers say they want a “passage set” they really want a cylindrical lock that actually locks. This is because they don’t know (and often don’t want to know) cylindrical lock functions. Therefore, the next question I ask is often, “How do you want this ‘passage set’ to work?”

Of course, “passage set” is the name of a cylindrical lock function. The function of a passage set is that the latch can always be retracted by turning either handle. It always latches but is never locked. So when customers order a passage set with an electric strike, I am doubly suspicious. Do they really want a passage set with that electric strike?

Passage sets are used in non-locking applications like corridors, closets and some offices, and in non-locking fire rated doors to meet the positive latching requirement for fire rated openings.

Therefore, if you want to sound intelligent as you order your cylindrical locksets, don’t call them passage sets unless they are. Thank you.

Deadbolts and Auxiliary Deadlocks

August 31, 2011 builders hardware / door hardware / security hardware

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Overview

There are three main types of deadbolts:

Tubular (or Cylindrical)
Rim (surface mount)
Mortise

This article discusses the installation details and relative merits of each, as well as what to look for in terms of quality and security.

Deadbolts are usually considered an auxiliary lock because, with the exception of aluminum and glass storefront doors, they are not the primary means of latching the door shut.

Tubular Deadbolts

Above is a the first page of the B600 Series section of the Schlage commercial price book, showing an exploded view of the B600 series deadbolt. Notice the “Security Shield” that protects the bolt from attack through the door.

Tubular (or cylindrical) deadbolts are by far the most popular deadbolts used today. Preferred by renovation contractors for their ease of installation, they differ greatly in quality and security.

Installation

Tubular (or cylindrical) deadbolts are generally installed into a modified 161 door prep – that is, the same prep that accepts a standard cylindrical doorknob or lever set. The 161 prep consists of a 2-1/8 inch diameter hole drilled through the door. This hole is called the “bore.” A second hole, called the “cross bore,” is then drilled from the lock edge of the door to intersect with the bore. This second hole is usually 7/8 or 1 inch in diameter and is located on the center line of the first hole. See diagram:

Quality and Security

Quality in tubular deadbolts ranges from the relatively poor quality of inexpensive locks widely available in lumber yards and hardware stores to high security versions available mainly from locksmiths and other security hardware specialists. The differences between cheap and good are:

Sturdiness of the bolt
Strike reinforcement
Guarding of the bolt
Sturdiness of the cylinder collar
Bump, pick and drill resistance

The bolt is the actual part that projects out of the door and into the door frame. The sturdier it is, the harder it will be for a burglar to break it off or saw through it.

The strike, or strike plate, is the rectangular piece of metal in the door frame that receives the bolt. In a wooden frame, this piece will only be as strong as the wood it is attached to. This is why it is important that the strike fasteners are long enough to reach the stud behind the frame.

The dust box goes inside behind the strike plate, inside the door frame. A metal dust box makes it much more difficult to get a tool behind the end of the bolt – a very important function in terms of burglary resistance.

On a steel door frame the strike plate becomes less important, but it is still important to guard the end of the bolt as effectively as possible.

The cylinder collar is the washer-like ring that surrounds the cylinder and rests against the exterior surface of the door. The best deadbolts have solid collars that spin freely if one tries to twist them off with pliers. Cheap deadbolts have hollow collars that crush like a beer can when gripped by pliers.

Since key bumping videos are now widely available via the Internet, it is worthwhile making sure your locks are bump resistant; lock picking is more of an art, but some burglars are skilled in it, so pick resistance is worth having; and because cordless drills are inexpensive and readily available, drill resistance is a good thing, too. Locks that are resistant to these three kinds of attacks have a UL Listing UL437 for Burglary Resistance and say so on their labeling. Two deadbolts that offer UL437 burglary resistance as well as sturdy bolts, collars and provisions for strike reinforcement are the Schlage B600 series with Primus or Everest UL437 cylinder, and the Medeco D11 series with M3 series cylinder.

Rim Deadlocks

The terms “deadlock” and “deadbolt” are often used interchangeably.

Surface mounted deadbolts, AKA rim deadlocks, were once the industry standard. Many locksmiths’ fortunes were made on the Segal 667 “jimmy proof” deadbolt with cylinder and latch guards, and, in fact, that locking system was often effective in keeping burglars out. My personal preference for maximum locking strength (short of a multi-point lock) is a jimmy proof rim deadbolt and a tubular deadbolt on the same door.

Here is an illustration of the Segal vertical deadbolt:

A jimmy proof deadbolt, otherwise known as a vertical deadbolt, is the most effective kind of rim deadlock because it interlocks the door and frame in a way that few other locks do.

The other kind of rim deadlock is a horizontal deadbolt such as the Yale 112 (see below left).

The Yale 112 features a 1-1/2 inch throw deadbolt – ½ inch longer than what is normally available in a tubular deadbolt.

To achieve bump, pick and drill resistance in a rim deadlock, simply add a UL437 UL listed rim cylinder. Protect the cylinder with a cylinder guard to increase security still further.

The weakest part of the rim deadlock is the strike when it’s installed into a wooden frame. To help alleviate this weakness, install screws that are long enough to reach the stud behind the door frame.

On a metal frame, a rim lock strike can be very strong when it is installed correctly.

Mortise Deadbolts

There are two kinds of mortise deadlocks:

Small Body Mortise Deadbolts
Full Size Mortise Deadbolts

Small body mortise deadbolts are usually installed where most auxiliary locks are installed, six inches to a foot above the primary lock, maybe around 60 inches from the bottom of the door frame. The lock case of a small body mortise lock is variable – that is, it is not standardized.

A small body mortise deadbolt can be a good choice for a wooden door, especially if it is a thicker-than-usual wooden door. Since the lock is a good size metal box that gets tucked into an approximately 5 inch by 1/2 inch pocket carved into the wood, the lock utilizes the strength of the door to its best advantage.

Full size mortise deadbolts are installed in an “86 prep” (see illustration), which is a pocket located on a center line about 40 inches above the bottom of the door frame. Unlike most other deadbolts, full size mortise deadbolts are intended for use as the primary – and usually the only – lock on any given door. Full size mortise deadbolts are usually used on mechanical compartments, closets in corridors or other places where trim would be in the way.

Both small body and full size mortise deadbolts feature heavy duty mechanisms and strong, 1-inch projection bolts. With the addition of a high security, UL437 UL listed mortise cylinder to add bump, pick and drill resistance, mortise deadbolts can provide a high degree of security.

Schlage L460 Series Small Body Mortise Lock

Avoiding Tailpiece Loss Syndrome

August 26, 2011 builders hardware / door hardware

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SFIC Tailpieces, A.K.A. Throw Members

Tailpiece Loss Syndrome is such a common occurrence in the door hardware industry that it is almost a joke. It happens like this:

The job specifies small format interchangeable core (SFIC) cylindrical locks
The locks are shipped with separate tailpieces, often called ‘throw members’
The installer (usually a contractor) installs the locks and throws the tailpieces away

This occurs so often that when I get a call from a customer who says, “I have a job where we installed all SFIC cylindrical locks…” I finish the sentence for them, “… and the contractor threw the tailpieces away.” That usually gets a chuckle, but there’s not much humor in it really, especially if the tails must be factory ordered with a lead time of several weeks and the inspection is tomorrow.

Nope, no fun.

To avoid losing the tailpieces this way, there are a couple of things you might do:

Get a responsible person (maybe you) to collect the tailpieces when the locks are delivered, or
Have the tailpieces shipped separately directly to you, or
Order cores with the locks and have the contractor install them and ensure they are working properly. (They will need to have the tails to accomplish this.)

If you elect to order the cores with the locks and want to avoid the delays associated with waiting for an order of master keyed permanent cores, order construction cores. Construction cores are temporary cores that are all keyed alike for use during the construction phase. Typically hardware re-sellers stock construction cores or they are readily available from the factory, so they are usually deliverable fairly quickly.

Locking People In

August 12, 2011 access control / door hardware / Life Safety Hardware / security hardware

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I often get a request to help create a system that locks people in. People want to lock children inside a daycare center, students inside a “Time-Out” room, babies inside a nursery in a maternity hospital or patients inside, for example, an Alzheimer’s disease in-patient facility for their own good.

“Well, what if there’s a fire?” I ask.

That’s really the issue. If we are keeping them in, how are they supposed to get out in the event of a fire? Yet, except when there is a fire or other emergency that renders the building unsafe, it is in their best interest if they are kept inside.

Often, people simply want to lock people in with an electromagnetic lock or other device. Since this is certainly a violation of life safety code, any injury that may result would be uninsurable and could invite litigation.

I discuss delayed egress systems in depth in another article (click here to read). A delayed egress system is really the right way to do this, since it is actually covered in the NFPA 101A Special Locking Arrangements section of the fire safety code, but it is fairly inconvenient to use. To get out without setting off an alarm users must use some kind of bypass request to exit switch like a keypad, card reader or key switch – much less convenient than, say, simply pushing a door open via the push pad on an exit device.

The gist of a delayed egress system is that, after a short ‘nuisance’ delay, the lock sounds an alarm for fifteen seconds and then lets the person out. That means that authorities on the secured premises have fifteen seconds to get to the exit and prevent unauthorized egress.

Where unauthorized egress is not a life threatening prospect, therefore, a delayed egress system is perfectly adequate. However, when a person’s life may depend on being kept inside their care facility, a more complex solution maybe required.

A great solution for Alzheimer’s or other dementia care facilities is the WanderGuard system by Stanley. This system is designed for Alzheimer’s and other health care facilities where unscheduled patient departure is an issue, and covers other needs with fall monitoring and patient call capabilities. Patients are fitted with bracelets that serve as tracking and communication devices. As one might expect, such a system is not inexpensive and a bit on the overkill side for use in a day care center or maternity facility. To physically keep people inside the facility, the WanderGuard system is designed to interface with delayed egress locks.

I think that the WanderGuard system would be a good choice for use in maternity ward nurseries as well.

The situation is more challenging when you have a day care center or a “Time-Out” room.

I had heard that Schlage was coming out with a mechanical time out lock, but a search as of today renders only the same Time-Out Room solution: An electromagnetic lock with a momentary pushbutton. The troublesome child is forced into a room, the door is shut, and then the teacher or other disciplinarian must physically press the momentary contact pushbutton to keep the magnetic locked locked. As soon as the teacher lets go, the child is free.

As long as the button is momentary, I have no problem with this idea. Should there be a fire or other life safety emergency, even if the teacher panics and runs away, leaving the child in the Time Out Room, the child will still be able to leave the room and exit the building.

The right way to prevent the kids in a daycare center from running out of the building and into the street without permission is with a delayed egress system. True, it may be cumbersome to punch in a code on a keypad or present a proximity card for authorized egress, but delayed egress systems can be easily deactivated for periods of time, say, for drop off and pick up. A delayed egress system is more expensive than, for example, an electromagnetic lock connected to the fire alarm system for safety. But if you run the scenario of a fire in your mind, the fire alarm interface to the electromagnet malfunctions, panicked children and day care providers flinging themselves against an illegally locked door, too crazed with fear to think – suddenly a delayed egress system makes a lot more sense.

There is really only one place you can really lock someone in, and that’s in a jail or prison. Otherwise there must be some provision to let them out – for safety’s sake.

What’s Hot in Door Hardware

June 18, 2011 access control / door hardware / security hardware

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A couple of new innovative products have recently caught my attention. Here they are:

Security Door Controls (SDC) Model LR100VDK:

Field Installed Electric Latch Retraction Retrofit Kit for Von Duprin Exit Devices

This product is available now.

http://www.sdcsecurity.com/whatsnew2.aspx#lr100

The mere 450mA inrush powering Security Door Controls’ new electric latch retraction retrofit kit is attractive enough. Its compatibility with all Von Duprin touch bar style devices may make it just about irresistible. Optional request to exit switch kits are available. The unit is usable for access control and electric dogging applications.

The small inrush is huge. (I always wanted to say that.) High inrush electric latch retraction requires special, expensive power supplies. Not so with the LR100VDK. Your average regulated and filtered 1-amp 24vdc power supply will do nicely, thank you.

Another great aspect of this kit is that it is compatible with the Von Duprin 22 series exit device. So now, for relatively short money you can give a customer electric latch retraction in a decent quality exit device.

HES Model 8500 Electric Strike for Mortise Locks

http://www.hesinnovations.com/en/site/hesinnovations/Products-startpage/?groupId=141798&productId=764670

This product is due to become available by the end of August, 2011, but we’ll see.

Hanchett Entry Systems’ new lipless electric strike solution for mortise locks.

Installing an electric strike to release a mortise lock will be much easier with the HES 8500 since no cutting of the face of the frame is necessary. Below is an illustration showing the difference between the HES 1006 standard electric strike for mortise lock and the new HES 8500.

HES 1006 prep for hollow metal

HES 8500 door prep for hollow metal - look ma, no lip!

This is not a new idea, but installers seem excited about the prospect of having an alternative to the Securitron UnLatch, which has been around for quite some time. The Unlatch model that the HES 8500 will compete with will be the Securitron MUNL.

Of course, the advantage the MUNL currently enjoys is that, unlike the 8500, one can actually buy an MUNL. Comparatively, the Securitron requires a door frame depth of about 1-7/8 inches whereas the the 8500 will require about 1-3/8 inches. The 8500 will draw 240mA at 12 volts DC and 120mA at 24 volts DC and draws no inrush current. The MUNL has an inrush of 2 amps at 24vdc or 4 amps at 12vdc and an operating current of 600mA at 12vdc or 300mA at 24vdc. One important result of the lower current consumption of the 8500 will be that instead of the 4 amp 12vdc or 8 amp 24vdc power supply necessary for each MUNL, one 8 amp 24vdc power supply will theoretically power as many as perhaps 60 of the new HES 8500. Of course then, factors like wire run will come into play, but still.

Another positive attribute will be that the 8500 will be field selectable for fail safe or fail secure whereas the MUNL requires an additional module to make it fail safe.

All in all, the 8500 seems that it will be a better choice all around. We’ll just have to wait and see how it performs in the field after it becomes available at the end of August 2011.

Low Voltage Detective Work

June 4, 2011 access control / door hardware / Life Safety Hardware / Lock Repair / security hardware

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Finding the Current Drop

As electric locking systems become increasingly complicated, troubleshooting these systems has also become more complex. Yet certain basic principles always apply.

Case in point, a customer had access control on a stairwell door using a fire rated mortise exit device with an electrified mortise lock. The solenoid in the mortise lock had burned out twice and the third one, newly installed, was already too hot to touch. Granted, a solenoid operated fail safe device used in a continuous duty application will get warm, but it should not get too hot to touch. So they called me to help them figure out what was going on.

To find the problem, I first listed the possibilities:

They had gotten three defective solenoids in a row
The power supplied is the wrong voltage – if the voltage was either too high or low, that would cause the solenoid to heat up
The current supplied is inadequate – the solenoid used 330mA. If it were being supplied with only 150mA, for example, the solenoid would heat up.

We determined that 27 volts DC was available at the door to power the 24 volts DC solenoid – perfectly acceptable – and we all felt that it was rather unlikely that they had received three defective solenoids in a row. So that left current drop. Where was the current going? What was preventing it from getting the current it needed?

The access control tech on site could not determine whether the solenoid was getting enough current at the door by using a meter (for whatever reason) so we traced the current back through the line.

The power supply was a 6 amp, 24 volts DC power supply that had an output board with 8 fused outputs. If all were in use, then a max of 750mA should be available from each output, provided they all were carrying the same amperage load. We determined that four of the outputs were being used: three were used to power electric strikes at 300mA and one was used to power the electric mortise exit device at 330mA. The sum of the current draw for all devices attached to the power supply was therefore about 1.2 amps – well within the power supply’s capacity. Therefore the power supply size was not the problem. The technician measured the output from the contacts that were connected to the mortise lock and found that they were outputting correct voltage and current. Therefore the output board was not the problem.

Assured by the technician that the wire run between the power supply and the mortise lock was less than 100 feet and that 18 gauge wire was used, I knew that the wire run was not the problem. I asked how power got from the door frame through the door and into the mortise lock. The technician responded that power transfer was accomplished by use on an electric hinge.

Typical wire gauge in an electric hinge is 24 gauge – a thin wire to be sure, but since power only needs travel a few inches through it, hinge wire gauge is usually not a problem. But this electric hinge had its own 3-foot wire lead threaded through a raceway in the door to the mortise lock. Whereas a few inches of 24 gauge wire might not be a problem, I reasoned, three feet of it might be a problem. We talked about it briefly and then agreed that they would give it a try.

To my dismay, they called back two hours later – after they had replaced the wire running through the door with 18 gauge wire and let the mortise lock run on it for a while – and let me know that this did not work either.

The answer finally came when I asked how the electric mortise lock was connected to access control and was told there was a controller in a box above the door. The controller used a form C relay to turn the electric mortise lock on and off. I suggested that the technicians check the relay to make sure it was working properly. When they did they discovered that the electric mortise lock had been connected in series with another device. This other device – whatever it was – drew enough current to deprive the mortise lock of the current it needed to operate without burning up. Problem solved.

The moral of the story is that, yes, access control has only gotten more complex as time goes by, but by using simple, logical methods a good technician and figure out and repair most problems. So stick with it and keep asking questions until you ask the right one.

And good luck!

Exit Devices with Electric Latch Retraction

April 9, 2011 access control / builders hardware / door hardware / Life Safety Hardware / security hardware / Uncategorized

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Overview

Almost all exit device manufacturers offer the option of electric latch retraction on their touch-bar style exit devices. Different manufactures may call it by other names such as ‘latch pull-back’ or ‘remote dogging’. Some people refer a device with electric latch retraction as an ‘electrified exit device’, but that could also refer to electric unlocking of outside trim – a different animal altogether. Electric latch retraction is accomplished by using a solenoid or electric motor to actually retract the latch or latches of an exit device.

Below are some characteristics of electric latch retraction:

Electric latch retraction is fail secure. When power is supplied, the latches retract. When power is shut off, the latches extend, securing the door.
Electric latch retraction works well with power operators because when the latches are retracted, the doors can swing free.
With electric latch retraction, pairs of doors can continue to be latched top and bottom.

Cheaper alternatives, such as using an electromagnetic lock or an electric strike, would result in double doors that are only locked at the top. If they happen to be aluminum narrow stile doors locked only at the top, a person could actually pull the bottom of the locked door open several inches with very little effort. Such installations are at best sloppy, at worst not secure.

Solenoid vs. Motorized Latch Retraction

Solenoid driven electric latch retraction usually requires a specialized power supply due to the high inrush of current required (between 12 Amps and 16 Amps at 12 or 24 Volts DC). Motorized latch retraction generally requires just over 1 Amp of current for activation.

Solenoids are generally louder than motors, since solenoids move abruptly whereas motors retract at a slightly slower pace, and are therefore quieter.

Global Considerations

Check door width. Electric latch retraction devices may not fit if the door is too narrow.
A means of getting current from the door frame into the device, such as a door cord or electric power transfer will be needed.
Voltage drop due to length of wire run could be an issue with high current inrush devices.

Following are examples of electric latch retraction exit devices by different manufacturers.

Please keep in mind that any of the part numbers shown may change without notice at any time.

Adams Rite

Adams Rite makes hardware primarily for aluminum-and-glass storefront type doors, but also for standard hollow metal and wood doors. All of their exit devices are available with MLR (motorized latch retraction) or solenoid latch retraction (EL for rim devices and LR for all other devices). They make rim, concealed vertical rod, surface vertical rod, and mortise exit devices.

MLR motorized option draws 850 mA during retraction and 370 mA when maintained in dogged hold position at 24 VDC. Available in 24 VDC only. (ex. part number 8xxxMLR)
EL solenoid driven option (for rim devices, example part number 8801EL-36-12) draws 1.5 Amps at 12 VDC and 600 mA at 24 VDC
LR solenoid driven option (example part number 8xxxLR-36) draws 16 Amps at 24 VDC (inrush) and 500 mA (holding current) at 24 VDC

They do not offer a retrofit kit for field conversion of existing devices as of this writing, but aftermarket kits are available from other manufacturers.

Falcon / Doromatic

Falcon makes Doromatic exit devices primarily for aluminum storefront doors. All of their touch-bar style devices are available with electric latch retraction. Currently they use the Von Duprin-type solenoid for latch retraction, and use the Von Duprin PS914-2RS power supply to handle the 16-amp inrush current these solenoids draw.

The PS914-2RS will power up to 2 exit devices with electric latch retraction.

Doromatic offers a solenoid driven electric latch retraction field retrofit kit for their 1490 series concealed vertical rod and 1590 series rim devices as well as factory installed electric latch retraction. The EL1690 concealed vertical rod device and EL1790 rim device can be used field retrofit kits to electrify the 1990 and 2090 series crossbar “pipe-type” exit devices for latch retraction since they have the same latch side footprint and the vertical rod devices can use the existing rods.

Falcon offers their grade 1 series 24 and 25 exit devices with electric latch retraction or motorized latch retraction and field conversion kits.

Falcon exit device example part numbers:

EL solenoid latch retraction (EL25-R-EO 3 US32D)
MEL motorized latch retraction (MEL25-R-EO 3 US32D)

Example field conversion kits:

ELK-3 or ELK-4 (or 650147 or 650148) solenoid latch retraction kit for 3- or 4-foot 24 or 25 series exit devices. Specify finish.
25-MELK-3 or 25-MELK-4 (or 47266630 or 47266631) motorized latch retraction kit for 3- or 4-foot 25 series devices only. 24 series MEL devices are factory only. Specify finish.

Precision

Precision makes exit devices for hollow metal, aluminum storefront, and wood doors, fire rated and non fire rated. All of their touch bar-style exit devices are available with electric latch retraction, and they offer both solenoid driven and motorized electric latch retraction for their grade 1 devices.

ELR solenoid latch retraction (ex. part number ELR2103 630 36)
MLR motorized latch retraction (ex. part number MLR2103 630 36)

Precision makes retrofit solenoid electric latch retraction kits specific to various device characteristics.

Non-fire rated 3- or 4-foot wide stile exit device: ELRK-3 / ELRK-4
Fire rated 3- or 4- foot wide stile exit device: ELRKF-3 / ELRKF-4
Non-fire rated 3- or 4- foot narrow stile exit device: NELRK-3 / NELRK-4
Fire rated 3- or 4-foot narrow stile exit device: NELRKF-3 / NELRKF-4

They make one kit to convert any of their touch bar devices to motorized latch retraction:

RPMLR-K

Sargent

Sargent offers a wide variety of exit devices in various functions and configurations to accommodate diverse applications. All 80-series models are available with “Remote Dogging / Latch Retraction”. Sargent recommends the Securitron BPS-24-1 power supply, a simple 1-amp, 24VDC power supply, to power electric latch retraction devices.

To designate Remote Dogging / Latch Retraction they use a prefix 56- to the exit device part number.

Example part number: 56-8810F 32D

Sargent offers two kinds of retrofit kits to convert existing Sargent exit devices to motorized latch retraction in the field. The R56A kit includes a complete touch bar (specify finish) whereas the M56A consists of a motor and control module unit that is unfinished. Rail size (according to door width) must be specified for either. Sargent uses letter designations for rail size:

E = 24 to 32 inch door width
F = 33 to 36 inch door width
J = 37 to 42 inch door width
G = 43 to 48 inch door width

Example part numbers:

Modular kit: M56AF
Push Rail Assembly Kit: R56AF 32D

Von Duprin

Von Duprin offers two kinds of electric latch retraction in rim, surface vertical rod, concealed vertical rod, mortise, and three-point exit devices for narrow stile aluminum storefront, standard hollow metal, and wood door applications. To order exit devices with latch retraction use prefix EL for solenoid latch retraction or QEL for motorized latch retraction.

EL prefix devices require the PS914-2RS power supply. PS902-2RS are the manufacturer’s recommendations for QEL prefix devices, but any regulated and filtered power supply 2 Amps or greater will do. If powering 2 devices simultaneously, the PS902-2RS will stagger the inrush, firing one QEL at a time. Since each draws 1 Amp, simultaneous activation of two devices might max out a standard 2 Amp power supply. If another manufacturer’s power supply will be used to power two devices, I suggest using a 3 Amp power supply.

Wire run/current drop factors apply.

Example part numbers:

Solenoid latch retraction: EL99EO 3 26D
Motorized latch retraction: QEL99EO 3 26D

Von Duprin offers a variety of retrofit kits to field convert existing exit devices to electric latch retraction. Options include motorized latch retraction kits, kits that include rail backplate (specify door 3 or 4 foot door width), kits with motorized latch retraction and hex key dogging, etc. Here I list part numbers for the most common variations:

Solenoid Latch retraction (EL) kits:
- For 3-foot door width: 050070
- For 4-foot door width: 050078
Motorized latch retraction (QEL) kits:
- For 3-foot door width: 958003
- For 4-foot door width: 040065

Dorma

Dorma offers solenoid and motorized latch retraction for their 9000 series exit devices. ES is the designation for solenoid driven latch retraction and MLR for motorized latch retraction. They offer full replacement touch bar and rail assemblies that can be used to field convert devices to ES or MLR.

Example exit device with latch retraction part numbers:

With solenoid latch retraction: 9x00B RHR 630 ES
With motorized latch retraction: 9×00 RHR 630 MLR

ES option requires Dorma PS501 power supply.

MLR option, Dorma DKPS-2A power supply recommended, but any 2 Amp regulated and filtered power supply will work.

Rail size designations:

A – for door width 34 inches to 48 inches
B – for door width 28 inches to 36 inches
C – for door width 25 inches to 30 inches

Touch bar and rail assemblies, example part numbers:

MLR option motorized latch retraction: MLRTBR 630 B
MLR option fire rated motorized latch retraction: MLRFTBR 630 B
ES option solenoid latch retraction: ESTBR 630 B
ES option fire rated solenoid latch retraction: ESFTBR 630 B

Wiring Through a Door

April 6, 2011 access control / door hardware

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AKA coring the door or drilling a raceway.

Like Moses leading the Hebrews across the Red Sea, you must work a miracle to bring electricity from the hinge side of the door to the lock side. Luckily it is a miracle on a much smaller scale. Moses had to deal with millions of gallons of water and miles of sea bottom whereas you only have to deal with a few feet of wood. So relax.

Raceway Reasons

The best way to get a wire raceway into a door is to order the door with it already built in. This is especially true of hollow metal doors which often have cross members inside at angles to where the through-wire needs to go. However, that would require planning in advance – a rare occurrence these days, it seems. Lack of planning is the main reason that field-drilling a raceway becomes a necessity.

Coring the door is usually the best option whenever you are installing an electric lockset. This is true whether you use a door cord or an electric hinge. The safest place for the wire is inside the door.

You will probably also need to drill a raceway if you are using an electric strike in the inactive leaf of a pair of doors. Usually you will also need a door cord, electric hinge or other power transfer.

Horizontal vs. Vertical

Electric Through-Wire Hinge

It is possible to drill a raceway with the door still up. I have done it but I don’t recommend it. It takes nerves of steel and a stiff, sharp drill bit. You need a decent sized bit that won’t bend right or left on you as you try to drill straight, and you need to make sure that the door doesn’t move on its hinges while you are drilling.

I found that taking the door down and standing it on edge in a homemade door stand is the easiest for me because:

The door is much less likely to move while you are drilling it
Using a level to guide you is much easier, and
Gravity is on your side

Constants

Certain constants apply to either horizontal or vertical drilling. In both cases I recommend a 3/8-inch by 3-foot drill bit. If the door is more than 3 feet wide, drill it from both sides or get a 4-foot bit. I prefer to drill from both sides because it’s a lot easier to drill straight for 18 or 24 inches than it is to drill straight for 3 or 4 feet.

Simple Door Stand

If you have a drill with a built-in level, use it. If your drill does not have a built-in level, any level will do. Just put it against the door anytime you want to check the angle at which you are drilling. Determine if the door has a beveled edge and don’t let the bevel skew your path through the door. Make sure your drill bit remains parallel to both the interior and exterior surfaces of the door.

Drilling a raceway across a door is a challenge, but all it really takes is good focus and an ability to drill a straight hole. If you are challenged in the latter aspect, you might consider a drilling tool like the Security Door Controls product shown below. If you have many raceways to drill, a tool like this one is a great idea.

Security Door Controls 7000IDF Door Drilling Kit

Exit Device, Panic Hardware and Crash Bar Basics

April 4, 2011 door hardware / Life Safety Hardware / security hardware

1 comment

Introduction

The terms “crash bar”, “panic hardware” and “exit device” all mean the same thing.

Precision Apex 2000 Series Rim Exit Devices by Stanley

Exit devices are used on doors in the path of egress in buildings built to accomodate numbers of people. Facilities like schools, hospitals, goverment buildings and large residential buildings all use them. Fire rated exit devices are used on fire rated doors. Most interior doors that require exit devices, especially stairwell doors, are fire rated.

Fire Rated Exit Devices

Fire rated openings require fire rated exit devices. Fire rated devices are so designated by Underwriters Laboratories. I am told that UL tests them by mounting the device on a fire rated door and setting the door on fire, letting it burn for a time, and then blasting the door full blast with a fire hose. If the door opens, the device fails the test and cannot be sold as a fire rated exit device.

Non-fire-rated exit devices are used mainly on exterior doors.

Dogging Feature

One of the chief differences between a fire rated exit device and a non-fire-rated exit device is called the “dogging” feature. A dogging feature allows the user to “dog the bar down” using a hex wrench or standard key, leaving the door unlatched. Since fire rated devices must always postitively latch, they never have a dogging feature.

Narrow Stile Exit Devices

The term, “lock stile”, refers to the part of a panel door or aluminum-and-glass storefront door onto which an exit device or other lock is installed. Many aluminum storefront doors one encounters in the world have lock stiles only 1-3/4 inches to 2 inches wide. If you need an exit device for such a door, you need an exit device for a narrow stile application.

Exit Device Types

The four main types of exit devices are:

Rim
Mortise
Surface Vertical Rod
Concealed Vertical Rod
Mid-panel

See examples of rim exit devices at:

http://www.sargentlock.com/products/product_overview.php?item_id=86

and

http://www.sargentlock.com/products/product_overview.php?item_id=57

See an example of a surface vertical rod device at:

http://www.sargentlock.com/products/product_overview.php?item_id=56

See an example of a mortise exit device at:

http://www.sargentlock.com/products/product_overview.php?item_id=59

See an example of a concealed vertical rod exit device at:

http://www.sargentlock.com/products/product_overview.php?item_id=60

Specifying Exit Devices

Exit device choice is based upon the door. As mentioned previously
if the door is fire rated, the exit device must also be fire rated.
If the door is a narrow stile door, an narrow stile application exit
device is required.

In addition, you need to know the width of the door. Exit devices
come in different lengths to accomodate different door widths, so
that the touchpad of the exit device provides the coverage required
by national and local life safety and/or fire code. Door thickness
could also be a factor, especially if you are going to need exit device
trim, that is, a lever, doorknob or thumbpiece that allows people
to unlatch the door and enter from the outside. I will discuss exit
device trim shortly.

For a pair of doors (otherwise known as a double opening, or a set
of double doors), the best choice is usually a surface or concealed
vertical rod exit device. In this case you also need to know the door
height.

It is possible to lock a pair of doors using one rim or mortise exit
device and either a vertical rod exit device or a set of flush bolts,
but these solutions (while perhaps saving a little money) present
other problems. If you use a rim device on the active door, then the
strike (the part you will be mounting on the inactive door to receive
the latch of the rim device) is called quite appropriately a “pocket-ripper”
strike, since it hangs into the opening at pretty much trouser pocket
level. Use of a mortise exit device on the active leaf eliminates
that problem, but it will not work as reliably as would two vertical
rod devices, and would save very little money.

The choice between concealed and surface vertical rod exit devices
should be a simple one. If you are having doors made, have the door
manufacturer install concealed vertical rod exit devices at their
factory. If you are installing a vertical rod device at a job site
on existing doors, then use surface vertical rods.

Concealed vertical rod exit devices are preferable because they are
protected from damage by the door. However, it is an especially skilled
installer who can install one in the field, and at that, it is a time
consuming and difficult job.

Mortise exit devices offer superior durability, and are otherwise
the best choice when retro-fitting an exit device to an existing door
that already has a mortise lock.

Exit Device Trim

The exit device goes on the inside, or interior side of the door,
and exit device trim goes on the outside. Exit device trim is available
in different functions. Below are the most common functions:

Key locks and unlocks lever handle or thumbpiece. Trim can be
left unlocked for periods of time allowing free entry.
Key retracts latch. Exit device is always locked from outside,
entry by key only. Not available on some vertical rod exit devices.
Key unlocks trim only while key is inserted. User turns key, operates
control for entry. Trim is relocked when user removes key.
Passage function: trim is always unlocked allowing free entry.
Dummy trim: trim is rigid, usable as a handle to pull the door
open when either the bar is dogged down using the dogging feature
(see above) or when the latch is retracted or the device released
by other means.

Exit Device Options

Exit devices are available with a wide variety of options that increase
their functionality. These include:

Alarm
Touchpad or latchbolt monitoring switches
Electric latch retraction
Electric dogging
Delayed egress

When Your Key Won’t Turn

April 2, 2011 door hardware / Lock Repair / security hardware

1 comment

Someday you might come home or go to open up your business and find that your key won’t turn at all, not even a little. There are several reasons this might occur.

At right, illustrations show the operation of a standard pin tumbler lock. When you insert your key, the key raises the pins to the point where the division between the top pins and the bottom pins aligns with the division between the plug and the bible of the cylinder, allowing the plug to turn.

Sometimes dust and dirt collect inside the lock cylinder. When that happens the dirt can cause the pins to stick in a partially raised position, preventing the plug from turning. In most cases a spritz of dry lubricant will be sufficient to free up the plug and allow you to open your door. Simply spray the lubricant into the keyway and insert the key a few times to work the lubricant into the mechanism. If this method does not work you may need to use a more solvent-based lubricant like WD-40 to loosen the dirt. Locks exposed to the elements sometimes collect a lot of dirt.

If your key will only go in part way, this could still be the same problem, or there may be an obstruction in the keyway. Illumination of the keyway reveals that the bottom pins hang down into the keyway. In the event that lubricating the lock is ineffective, slide a thin piece of wire into the lock along the bottom of the keyway, avoiding the pins, and feel for an obstruction. If the piece of wire will not go in as far as the length of the blade of your key, there may be an obstruction present. At this point you might want to call a locksmith, however, you can gently work your way past the pins and try to go over the obstruction in order to try to coax it out. This process can take a lot of patience and skill, and it is possible to make the problem worse if you are heavy handed with the pins.

From Wikipedia

Should lubrication fail to free up your lock and you can find no obstruction, your lock may have a more serious malfunction, such as a pin chamber worn enough to allow a pin to get stuck at an angle, or a corroded pin that is frozen in place and will not budge no matter what. In these cases you need a professional to gain entry for you and repair your lock. If you succeed in freeing up your lock but find that the problem is reoccurring with increasing frequency, it’s probably time for you to replace your cylinder.

The “Passage Set”

Deadbolts and Auxiliary Deadlocks

Overview

Tubular Deadbolts

Installation

Quality and Security

Rim Deadlocks

Mortise Deadbolts

Avoiding Tailpiece Loss Syndrome

Locking People In

What’s Hot in Door Hardware

Security Door Controls (SDC) Model LR100VDK:

Field Installed Electric Latch Retraction Retrofit Kit for Von Duprin Exit Devices

HES Model 8500 Electric Strike for Mortise Locks

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Exit Devices with Electric Latch Retraction

Wiring Through a Door

Exit Device, Panic Hardware and Crash Bar Basics

Introduction

Fire Rated Exit Devices

Dogging Feature

Narrow Stile Exit Devices

Exit Device Types

Specifying Exit Devices

Exit Device Trim

Exit Device Options

When Your Key Won’t Turn

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