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What Is A Pullman Latch?

comparisonA Pullman latch is a type of exit device latch. The leading edge of a Pullman latch, the part that hits the strike first as the door closes, is a ramp.  The back of the latch, the part that rests against the strike to keep the door latched shut, is rounded.  When the Pullman latch comes into contact with another object it retracts automatically.  It is a simple, spring-loaded mechanism.

Some rim exit devices have Pullman latches, but most concealed and surface vertical rod exit devices do not.  Most vertical rod exit devices have a main latch that is shaped like a Pullman latch but also has an additional piece that looks like a kind of separate little latch, or auxiliary deadlatch.  This part interacts with the mechanism of the latch to keep the top latch retracted until this separate piece hits the strike as the door closes.  Then the main latch pops out and locks into the strike.

Latch release extended position.

Latch release extended position.

This latch-and-release design top latch is used by many manufacturers as the mechanism that holds both top and bottom latches in the retracted position while the door is open. That way the latches do not make contact with the surfaces of the door frame, floor or threshold.  When the top latch release makes contact with the strike it releases both top and bottom latches.

The photo to the left shows the latch release fully extended and the latch fully retracted.  This is the state that this type of latch is in when the door is open.

The Pullman latch is most often used with less-bottom-rod (A.K.A. top rod only) vertical rod exit devices when they are to be used with an electric strike.  The normal latch-and-release design is incompatible with most (if not all) electric strikes. Electric strikes that are compatible with Pullman latches are said to have Pullman keepers.

Sometimes Pullman latches are used as the top and bottom latches on vertical rod exit devices because they operate more quietly than standard latches.

Pullman latches are not fire rated and are not for use with fire rated exit devices.

pullmanlatchandkeeper

Illustration of Pullman latch and Pullman keeper. Whereas the locking surfaces of electric strike keepers designed for use with cylindrical or mortise locks is perpendicular to the door frame, the Pullman keeper is at a 45 degree angle to the frame, creating an angled recess to accommodate the unique shape of the Pullman latch.


Overview: School Security Hardware

11line

Sargent 11-Line Cylindrical (bored) Lockset

Security in our elementary and secondary schools has become much more important. Schools across the country are implementing lockdown procedures in case of emergency. Lockdowns are achieved through the use of locks, and new lock functions have been developed for use in concert with existing lock functions to answer the need for increased security.

Classroom Security Locks

A regular, traditional classroom function lock is unlocked and locked from the outside by key and the inside lever is always unlocked, allowing free egress. The problem with this function from a lockdown point of view is that, in order to lock the door, the teacher must open the door to lock it, exposing themselves and potentially their students to danger as they do so.

All major lock companies are either developing a classroom security function or assigning that application to one of their existing functions. Basically, the principal is this: in the event of an emergency the teacher can lock the outside lever handle of the classroom door from inside the classroom, thereby securing the safety of the students without endangering themselves. The inside lever remains unlocked allowing free egress. When locked, entry from the outside is by key only.

Some companies have developed classroom security function locksets in which the outside lever can be locked or unlocked with either the inside key or the outside key. This allows the teacher to continue to use the lock as a traditional classroom lock unless an actual emergency develops.

Click here for a complete description of classroom security function in a mortise lock.

 

Electric Lock Down Systems

Some school districts have opted to lock down their perimeter doors with delayed egress systems. Delayed egress systems are a way of locking exterior entrance doors from both sides while allowing for emergency egress.

Quest for the 24-Inch Exit Device with Electric Latch Retraction

Yale7100I had a lot of fun recently trying to meet a customer’s requirement for a 4-foot by 7-foot pair of doors in a hospital that needed to be fire rated and automated.   I found that Corbin and Yale (sister companies whose exit devices are almost identical) offer fire rated surface vertical rod exit devices with electric latch retraction that meet this need.   The installer will be able to put some kind of little power operator on each 24-inch leaf of this four foot pair and cram two fire rated surface vertical rod devices onto these same narrow leaves.  Doubtless it will look odd, but it will work.

Admittedly the whole idea is a bit dubious.  True, by having both leaves opened simultaneously by power operators will provide amply more than the minimum 32-inch clearance demanded by the American Disabilities act, but if anyone manually opens either leaf it certainly will not.

Sargent and Von Duprin offer 24-inch fire rated exit devices, but neither offer them with electric latch retraction.   It is unfortunately necessary to call these companies’ tech support lines in order to verify this information, since their price lists both show 24-inch possibilities without disclaiming the electric latch retraction option.  Neither the Sargent nor the Von Duprin has a note to say the 24-inch device is not available with electric latch retraction that I could see; if that is in fact the case, the buyer is left to beware the exit device order that bounces back because it was ordered with options that are mutually incompatible.

It’s good advice anyway to always call the manufacturer’s tech support whenever there is a question.  Waiting on hold is a lot better than storing thousand-dollar exit devices that didn’t work out on the job.

Note:  A reader named Rick writes in with this about Sargent electric latch retraction:  “Tom, I just stumbled across your site this evening, while doing a search for Fail Secure mag locks of all things (IR says there is one).  But I saw your latest article on latch retraction units and had to clarify the Sargent restrictions. These can be found within the catalog pages, specifically the page showing the 56 option (toward the back). It says:

         MinimumDoorWidths:
              -Wide Stile Door 28″
              – Narrow Stile Door 26″
Thank you, Rick, for this bit of info.  I should add that it is always good to check all the literature at your disposal for any information you are looking for.  Some manufacturers have more detail in their price list than in their catalog, and others vice versa.  Thanks again.


Securitron’s new PowerJump ICPT™ Inductive Coupling Power Transfer

Securitron’s new PowerJump ICPT™

Securitron’s new PowerJump ICPT™

The door hardware industry breathlessly awaits the debut of Securitron’s new PowerJump ICPT™ Inductive Coupling Power Transfer.  The PowerJump is Securitron’s miraculous new device that may put a significant dent in the electric through-wire hinge market.  I mean, why would you drill a half inch hole the width of a 36-inch door when you could install this little pair of black boxes on the lock side?

I downloaded the installation instructions from the Securitron web site to check out product attributes and characteristics.  The first thing I noticed, having spent much of my career working with wooden doors, that the Securitron PowerJump ICPT is a bit friendlier to a hollow metal door or frame install than it is to a wood door or frame install.  Because the body of the unit is almost the same size as the face, the installer must take great care to cut a very clean hole for the body so that the hole does not exceed the size of the face.  This can be a little tricky when using a speed bore bit (or auger bit as mentioned in the instructions) to drill the two deep holes for the mortise pocket before cutting in the face.

One trick I have used to use when installing mortise locks was to cut in the face first and get that nice and clean before drilling the holes.  I had good success with this because it gave me a very clear outline to stay within – much like coloring inside the lines with crayons in kindergarten.  Installing the PowerJump is a lot like installing a really small mortise lock, actually.  The face is the same width and a standard architectural grade mortise lock – 1-1/4 inches.

The PowerJump ICPT draws 500mA at 24 volts DC on the frame side, will transmit it across up to 3/16 inch of empty air and output either 250mA at 24VDC or 500mA at 12VDC on the door side.  500mA seems a little slim to be powering an electrified mortise lock.  Usually I like to see a bit of a cushion when it comes to current, so I would usually not power a device that requires 250mA at 24 volts DC, like a Sargent electrified mortise lock, with a power source that provided no more than the 250mA required.  I’d be a lot happier with a power source that has a capacity at least 1.5 times as great as the appliance being powered.

However, the average electrified hinge with 28-gauge through-wires only has a current rating of about 160mA and we have been powering electric mortise locks with these for decades.  Since I am not an electrical engineer I am not sure how that works, but it does.  I am also mystified by the science behind transmission of electrical current by induction.  Therefore, like most installers, I trust Securitron to produce yet another innovative product that works well.   I’ll be waiting to hear how installers like it when it is finally released.  I know I’ll hear about it one way or another.

The Double Door Rim Strike – A.K.A. “The Pocket Ripper”

pocketripperOne of the hallmarks of bad hardware choices is the “pocket ripper” strike, used on a pair of doors when there is an inactive leaf with flush bolts or a vertical rod exit device and an active leaf with a rim exit device. Whenever I see this I think, “Cheap bastard,” because the only reason for this half fast solution is money and the desire not to spend it on doing the job right.

This lovely piece of hardware earned the nickname, “pocket ripper,” but hanging into the opening at a convenient height to catch the front pocket of a pair of trousers, resulting in egregious damage to said pocket and colorful language on the part of the victim.

What is the right way to secure a pair of doors? Vertical rod exit devices are the best. My second choice would be a mortise exit device with an open back strike and a vertical rod exit device on the inactive leaf. My third choice would be a mortise exit device with flush bolts on the inactive leaf.

Below are a couple of examples of the ‘pocket ripper.’   On the left is the classic Von Duprin 1609 strike and on the right an example from Ingersoll Rand in Europe.  The European version looks like it has better manners.

In the center we have the Hager 4921 strike that really looks like it could take out more than just a pocket if you catch it the wrong way.

image001image002hager

 

 

 

In addition, I find that often the rim latch stops dead before latching on the strike.  Also, depending on how you install the rim device, the latch may drag across the edge of the other leaf, scraping an ugly divot over time.  Yes, all in all a hardware choice to be avoided if you can.

 

Securitech Trident Multi-Point Deadbolt Exit Lock

Trident 4-point deadlocking exit device.

Simple and robust design helps to ensure security and longevity; single motion egress ensures life safety code compliance.  

Simple to order and to install, the Trident offers excellent security while preserving life safety.

The first thing I noticed when I unpacked the box was the small number of parts.  The second thing I noticed was how well all of these parts are labelled.  As I read the installation instructions I was struck by how easy Securitech had made the installation process, especially with the inclusion of a metal template to help get everything lined up just right.

I assume that the Trident is named for the three active bolts that secure the door on the lock side, but with the inclusion of the passive hinge side bolt it is actually a four point lock.  The hinge side bolt slides passively into its keeper whenever the door is closed.

Trident is a heavy device, so before installing it, make sure your door swings and closes properly and the hinges are in good shape.  I suggest using hinges with non-removeable pins so as not to rely solely upon the Trident’s hinge side bolt.  A stainless steel continuous hinge would be even better for both security and durability, if it is possible to use one.

Every locking mechanism of the Trident is through-bolted through pry-resistant steel plates, so casual attack using a pry bar would likely be fruitless no matter how much time the would-be burglar might have.  Each locking bolt is substantial and housed in a very sturdy mechanism.  Bending one of them would be difficult; bending all of them enough to gain entry would be almost impossible.  The main outside plate is impressive-looking with its Securitech logo and satin stainless steel finish, and since it is through-bolted to the head of the device in several

Photo by Tom Rubenoff

places, it’s pretty strong, too.

The weakest part of any muli-point locking device is the door frame.  Fully grouted (concrete filled) hollow metal frames hold up the best under attack.  At the very least, to have real security measures must be taken to ensure that the door frame cannot be either pulled out of the wall or bent away from the locking bolts.

To maximize security, I suggest not using the optional exterior key control with this device.  The presence of a key cylinder outside provides a target for burglars.

The Trident comes standard with a paddle that tells the user to push to exit and alarm will sound, but since the alarm is optional, this may be an empty threat.  Be sure to order your Trident with an alarm if you want one.

I was impressed with the workmanship evident in how the Trident is put together.  Everything worked super-smoothly and fit together perfectly.  The strong, simple design looks like it will provide many years of flawless service.  I highly recommend it for the back doors of stores, warehouses or factories or anywhere where a higher level of security may be needed.

Securitech Lexi Electrified Exit Device Trim

Great Problem Solver

The Securitech Lexi series retrofit exit device trim is available with a variety of back plates and adapters that allow it to be used with most major brands, including many surface vertical rod and concealed vertical rod exit devices.  Compatibility with a variety of vertical rod devices is a major plus.

I mean, anybody can electrify a rim exit device by simply installing an electric strike.  However, while it is possible to install an electric strike on a vertical rod device it rarely brings a good result.  First of all, in order to use an electric strike you have to first lose the bottom rod.  That just leaves one latch at the top of the door to provide all the security.  If it is a tall door or a flexible door – like an aluminum storefront door – you can pull the bottom open several inches with just that top latch holding it.  Add a little time and a little hinge sag and pretty soon you have no security at all.

The other solution is electric latch retraction, or electric latch pullback, as some manufacturers call it:  relatively expensive compared with a Lexi trim.  Also, electric latch retraction is a fail secure only solution when locking trim is used and therefore may be inapplicable to fail safe installs such as stairwells, unless passage function (always unlocked) trims are used.

I notice that right out of the box the Lexi is very self contained.  Other than a tiny box containing mounting screws, tailpiece operators, and a cylinder collar and cam, what you see is pretty much what you get.  It’s pretty hefty for its size – it is designed on the slim side so as to be usable on narrow stile as well as hollow metal or wood doors.   This does mean that the installer may have to be a little creative when replacing a larger exit device trim with the Lexi.

Installation instructions are easy to follow and short – only four pages, including the template. Something I would have liked to see in the instructions, but didn’t, was current draw.  If I am installing one of these, the number of amps it draws are not going to matter much to me.  But if I am installing twenty of them and want a centralized power source, now it’s an issue.  Yet it isn’t anything that an experienced low voltage specialist with a ammeter can’t find out in two seconds.

One of the great innovations I noticed right away is the rotation restriction clip that allows the installer to customize tailpiece rotation to the exit device.  I do not think that this is handled better by any other manufacturer.  Correct degree of rotation often determines whether a trim will work or not, and to have a trim that has degree of rotation so easily selectable is damn nice.

As mentioned in the sales literature, since Securitech’s Lexi trim is compatible with so many exit devices, if you have a facility with different brands of exit devices dispersed throughout, you can install access control and unify the exterior appearance at the same time.  And in addition to being versatile it is also durable.  Forcing the lever only causes its internal clutch to break away, and it can easily be set right by rotating it back the other way.

All in all the Securitech Lexi trim seems to be a well built, versatile problem solver.  I think you’ll find it useful in many access control installations.

The Keyway: Gateway to the Cylinder

The keyway is the shape of the keyhole of the lock cylinder into which the user inserts the key.  The keyway is designed to allow only keys of the correct shape to be inserted such that, when properly made, they will align the pin tumblers properly and operate the cylinder.  If you view a key from the tip, you can see how the shape of the key corresponds to the shape of the keyway.

 

 

 

 

 

The theory behind the keyway is to let only certain kinds of keys in and keep all others out, and keyways do this with varying amounts of success.  A variation on this idea is the “sectional” keyway system in which keys of slightly different keyways are allowed to “pass” into the cylinder keyway.  See the diagram of the Schlage hierarchy of keyways below:

The keyways shown at the bottom of the chart are designed to fit in only one keyway.  Unlike the keyways shown in the top two rows, actual locks have the keyways in the bottom row.  The keyways shown in the second row could be called sub-master sectional keyways because keys cut on blanks of these keyways will each pass several of the keyways in the bottom row.  Keys cut on the “L” keyway shown at the top of the chart will pass all of the keyways below it.  This keyway is designed to be used only at the level of Master or Grand Master key.

Unfortunately, some key duplicators use the “L” keyway key blanks to cut keys of any sectional keyway they may currently not have in stock.  This shoddy practice degrades the security of a master key section that depends on sectional keyways for security.

Restricted Key or Restricted Keyway?

Keys can be stamped with the words, “Do Not Duplicate” or “Property of [insert name of institution or government agency here],” and that may stop some honest people from getting the key copied.  The term, “restricted key,” however, usually means factory restricted keyway, and a factory restricted keyway can effectively inhibit unauthorized key duplication.

How Does a Factory Control a Keyway?

The most effective way to control unauthorized key duplication is to make the key blanks as difficult to get as possible.  Key blanks are like blank paper to a copier.  Imagine copy paper protected by a patent owned by a paper mill.  The only place to get the paper would be the paper mill.  Thus, one of the ways security hardware manufacturers protect a keyway is to protect it by patent law.  Part of that protection is aggressively pursuing anyone who violates the patent with lawsuits and other legal instruments to prevent patent infringement.

Another way factories protect keyways is to keep records of who is using what keyway and where.  Many companies have restricted key programs – Schlage Primus, Kaba Peaks and Medeco are a few examples.  Factories may keep signatures of end users on file.  In this case, requests for restricted products must be accompanied by a document that is signed with the correct signature or the factory will not release the product.

Some restricted keys come with an ID card that authorizes the card holder to get keys made.  This is less secure than key duplication that is controlled at the factory, but it is a step up from keys that anyone can get made at Home Depot.

Keyways and Key Bumping

In order to use a bump key to open a lock, the key bumper needs to have the right blank.  You cannot bump a cylinder with a bump key that has the wrong keyway.  It won’t go in.  Therefore, having a lock that has a somewhat rare keyway is a very easy and inexpensive way to make unauthorized entry by key bumping difficult.  Most of the people out there bumping locks open are not the brightest bulbs in the lighting fixture.  Challenge them with a hard-to-identify keyway and they will most likely be defeated.


Hardware Preparedness

Preparedness for the Commercial Door Hardware Installer

One of the most time consuming aspects of hardware installation is travel to and from the job.  In a perfect world, the installer knows in advance everything they will need, but as we all know, the World of Hardware is not a perfect one.   Often there is no opportunity to survey the job beforehand and the information given by the client is often either sketchy or nonexistent.   As a result, travel time to and from is often doubled or tripled by the necessity to ‘go back to the shop’ to pick up the parts needed to complete a given job.  A certain amount of travel time is billable, nevertheless your customer is not happy paying for it, trust me.

While it is virtually impossible for a hardware or access control installer to be always prepared for every need, here are some items that go a long way toward helping to reduce travel time that results from a lack of parts.

Generally Speaking

The first rule of hardware preparedness is to pay attention.  What kind of hardware does your customer have, and what do they have that tends to break?  If your customer has a building full of mortise locks will swivel spindles, best keep a few of those spindles on the truck because you know they are going to break in the middle.  If your customer has entrances with Doromatic 1690 or 1990 concealed vertical rod devices, you’d better stock a few pinion cams because you know the teeth are going to break off of them.  Whenever you repair anything that looks like it’s poorly made and notice there is a quantity of it on the property, best carry what you need to fix it.

If you are doing a lot of work for a client and they have a particular kind of lock, be sure to stock a few.  The property manager will be impressed when you triumphantly produce one from your service vehicle in the nick of time.

Fasteners

You know what fasteners you often find missing in action.  Undercut flat Philips head 12-24 1/2-inch self tapping hinge screws, for example.  In an emergency they can double as ANSI strike screws.  Collect those 6-32 3/4-inch combination machine/wood screws from tubular and cylindrical lock latch and bolt fronts.  They can double as screws for a mortise lock armor front if you cut them short.   For aluminum doors it can be very handy to carry some 10-32 x 2-inch flat head Philips machine screws, and its always good to have a few universal mounting tabs around just in case.

Other Stuff

On the electrical side it’s always good to have a SPDT relay, one each of a 12vdc and 24vdc 1-Amp plug-in power supply and a 4-1/2 x 4-1/2 4-wire electric power transfer hinge in satin chrome are all things that one tends to find oneself wishing for on the job; the Securitron TM-9 timer module sure does come in handy sometimes; on the lock frontier it’s always good to have a few cheap replacement cylinders for emergencies; and a full surface reinforcing pivot hinge can be a life saver sometimes, though because they are handed you do have to carry both hands for the full prophylactic effect.

In addition to these common sense items there are a couple of products that can save a parts run, too.

LCN 4040XP

The 4040XP in the RW/PA configuration (by the LCN Door Closer division of Ingersoll Rand) is a non-handed door closer like many others that can be installed in either regular, top jamb or parallel arm mount.  Its adjustable spring tension makes it a perfect choice for doors that require a lot of force to close due to wind or other conditions, or for an ADA compliant opening that must open with minimal resistance.  If the installer carries the closer and the 4040-18, 4040-18PA and 4040-18TJ drop plates, they will be able to install the 4040XP on almost any door.  The most popular finish of the 4040XP is 689 aluminum.

HES Electric Strikes with Faceplate Options

Hanchett Entry Systems (HES) has greatly advanced the concept of the modular electric strike since the company was founded.

  • The HES 1006 is field selectable for 12 or 24 volts DC power input, and with an optional Smart Pac line conditioner you can use anything from 12 to 32 volts AC or DC.   A variety of available faceplates for the 1006 enable the strike to accommodate virtually any lock.   Carrying a 1006 body with one each J option, K option, KD option and KM option faceplates and one Smart Pac will allow the installer to fill the need for an electric strike for 95% of all storeroom function cylindrical and mortise locks where the installation involves a hollow metal frame.
  • The HES 5200 is field selectable for 12 or 24 volts DC power input and any power input from 12 to 32 volts AC or DC with a Smart Pac.  Unlike the 1006, the 5200 is field selectable for fail safe or fail secure.  Since the 5200 has a three quarter inch keeper depth it will accommodate a mortise lock in a pinch, but really the 5200 is for use with cylindrical locks in hollow metal, wood or aluminum frame applications or for aluminum storefront door applications that include the Adams Rite deadlatch.  I recommend installers carry one each of the 501, 502 and 503 faceplate options to be prepared for the majority of these installations.

There are many things I’m sure I’ve missed:  electrical tape, fifty feet of 18/2 non-shielded wire, really sharp wood chisels, batteries – all kinds of stuff.  But don’t worry.  You’ll know what it is the next time you have to drive back to the shop to get it.

 

Cabinet Access Control

Rutherford Controls 3510 Electric Cabinet Lock

Cabinet security was already a concern in hospitals where drug theft is a problem, but has become an increased concern particularly in U.S. hospitals where new HIPAA privacy security regulations have mandated that patient data be secured by key or pass code locking device.  There are a wide variety of locking arrangements available to accomplish the task.

Simplex combination cabinet locks appear often in this application.  They are relatively inexpensive, not too hard to install, and accomplish basic compliance with HIPAA.  The regulations state that access to codes (or keys) should be limited, however, when you have a five-button mechanical combination lock, several hundred people can know the combination in a very short time by word of mouth.  Therefore a more costly and complex solution might be necessary in order to comply with the spirit of the regulations that are designed to actually protect patients’ privacy.

The best way to control people is to make them individually responsible.  That’s what electronic access control is all about.  Typically an institution adopts electronic access control for the audit trail capabilities that monitor who does what, where and when.  So if a patient’s information goes viral on the ‘Net, the debacle can more probably be traced back to its source.

As for credentials, biometrics is the most secure since one cannot share their fingerprint, but card or fob credentials are also effective.  People are less likely to share any credential that can be traced back to them.  Of course, unlike a fingerprint on a live finger, a card or prox fob could be stolen.   I do recommend a physical credential of some kind because PIN numbers are too easily shared.

The drawback to electronic security as applied to cabinets is that most available, good access control hardware tends to be hard wired.  Wiring can be difficult in such tight spaces, yet there are some solutions available.  For example, a resourceful access control installer could use an SDC model 1583 electromagnetic cabinet lock and an IEI Prox.pad keypad/proximity reader to secure a cabinet.  For a fail secure locking device, an RCI 3513 electric cabinet lock could be substituted for the SDC 1583.  The system would run on 24 volts DC and would need a power supply, but at least you could get audit trail and time zone capability out of it, with a Wiegand output for your existing access control system.

There are some glimmers of hope.  There are some stand-alone, battery operated cabinet locks that read a proximity card or i-Button.  But these are simply add-and-delete-user systems that allow control of who has access but does not keep track of when.  Without audit trail capability, access control is little better than that Simplex mechanical combination lock or a regular cabinet lock with its regular brass key.

For now the ultimate solution for cabinet security seems to be to put the cabinet in a locked room and use access control on the room rather than the cabinet.  But I think that will change, don’t you?


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